Advice on new deraileurs/shifters/brake levers/brakes.

bigW

Well-Known Member
I have a Trek 7000 MTB (1991) where I would like to replace deraileurs/shifters/brake levers/brakes. ( would like to get more brake leverage/braking power and deraileurs/shifters are failing ). Since there are 8 gears in the back is it as simple as getting a 9 or 10 speed shift setup and setting the limit screw to keep it to 8? Existing Shimano components are Deoro would prefer to get Shimano components as good or better that will work correctly even if it means spending some real money ( weight is not a concern but durability is ) . Thanks in advance. - Warren
 

Carson

Sport Bacon
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Dude. You'll spend a couple hundy upgrading a 20 year old bike. Do yourself a favor and spend a few hundred more and get a brandy new bike! You don't know what you've been missing....
 

jdog

Shop: Halter's Cycles
Shop Keep
Please don't sink any more money into that old beast.

Save the $ an start saving for a new one.

For $650 you can get a Haro Mary SS. This is the best way to spend the $.
 

MikeP

Well-Known Member
agree with 1st two. Not really worth upgrading that frame. You can get a decent new bike for 600 or a pretty good used one for less. Look here, CL, or your LBS.
 

michael.su

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
JORBA.ORG
Rockin' It Old School

I agree with everyone to some degree but if....

1) you really like the frame (sometimes emotional attachment, lol)
2) there is nothing wrong with the frame
3) you don't plan on selling it later to upgrade

I say fix it up and rock it old school ;)

You could even change a little bit at a time spreading the cost out. Just lubing and/or new cables makes a world of difference some times as far as shifting and braking is concerned.

It really doesn't make sense financially if you are not planning on doing the work yourself though. It all depends on whether you are a handy guy and/or want to learn something.

I don't buy much into the throw it away and buy a new one mentality for most things. Maybe because I'm broke but also because I like to tinker! hahaha

JM2C
 

J-7

Active Member
Is everything really failing or does it just need a tune up. You would be surprised what a new set of cables, brake pads, and a liitle adjustment will do. I'm willing to bet this is all it needs. Of course, still keep saving your money for a new ride.
 

soulchild

Well-Known Member
To answer your question on components I would go with SRAM... but now you're talking about a complete overhall from 8-9spd... I think you should head down to a LBS and ride a $600-$700 bike and see exactly what you could be riding for a few hundred more and I believe that will make up your mind for you. Good luck.
 

bigW

Well-Known Member
Trek 7000, a bike barely alive....

we can rebuild him, better.. stronger.. faster..

Looks like I forgot the "mad cyclist" disclaimer.

This is my original MTB that I purchased new back in the day ( never get rid of anything that is well made ). Agree with all the comments about a new bike making a waaay more fiscal sense but this is about reviving what I am currently riding. If I recall correctly even when new the shifters took thumbs of steel to operate on tiny little buttons and the entire mechanism has taken a beating this year. I already had taken apart/cleaned/lubed and put back on at the start of the year otherwise it was a complete non-starter.

The geometry of the brake levers and the cantilever arms is IMHO poor I would prefer some sort of direct-pull/ V-brake setup and perhaps look into SRAM shifters as suggested ( assume existing rear cassette can stay ( 13-30? )). I'll do all the work myself, that usually puts me in a better midset to deal with any "field repairs".

Thanks for the input.

warren

PS: Will be getting a new road/cross bike in Dec and will get a new MTB when I feel I am in good enough shape ( springtime? ) and have some basic riding skills to be able decide what I want to get
 

MikeP

Well-Known Member
we can rebuild him, better.. stronger.. faster..

Looks like I forgot the "mad cyclist" disclaimer.

This is my original MTB that I purchased new back in the day ( never get rid of anything that is well made ). Agree with all the comments about a new bike making a waaay more fiscal sense but this is about reviving what I am currently riding. If I recall correctly even when new the shifters took thumbs of steel to operate on tiny little buttons and the entire mechanism has taken a beating this year. I already had taken apart/cleaned/lubed and put back on at the start of the year otherwise it was a complete non-starter.

The geometry of the brake levers and the cantilever arms is IMHO poor I would prefer some sort of direct-pull/ V-brake setup and perhaps look into SRAM shifters as suggested ( assume existing rear cassette can stay ( 13-30? )). I'll do all the work myself, that usually puts me in a better midset to deal with any "field repairs".

Thanks for the input.

warren

PS: Will be getting a new road/cross bike in Dec and will get a new MTB when I feel I am in good enough shape ( springtime? ) and have some basic riding skills to be able decide what I want to get

I can respect that, my '94 Cannondale Killer V is on it's 3rd drivetrain. Even though I got a Top Fuel 8 this year I still ride it once a week and make minor tweaks here and there, next upgrade will probably be going ghetto tubeless.
 

Monkey Soup

Angry Wanker
we can rebuild him, better.. stronger.. faster..

Looks like I forgot the "mad cyclist" disclaimer.

This is my original MTB that I purchased new back in the day ( never get rid of anything that is well made ). Agree with all the comments about a new bike making a waaay more fiscal sense but this is about reviving what I am currently riding. If I recall correctly even when new the shifters took thumbs of steel to operate on tiny little buttons and the entire mechanism has taken a beating this year. I already had taken apart/cleaned/lubed and put back on at the start of the year otherwise it was a complete non-starter.

The geometry of the brake levers and the cantilever arms is IMHO poor I would prefer some sort of direct-pull/ V-brake setup and perhaps look into SRAM shifters as suggested ( assume existing rear cassette can stay ( 13-30? )). I'll do all the work myself, that usually puts me in a better midset to deal with any "field repairs".

Thanks for the input.

warren

PS: Will be getting a new road/cross bike in Dec and will get a new MTB when I feel I am in good enough shape ( springtime? ) and have some basic riding skills to be able decide what I want to get


Dude, don't believe the hype, trading your old hard-tail in for a new hard-tail gets you nothing but the same experience on a shinier bike. When you get a new bike, go all out and get a modern FS.
 

JB1

Member
If you really want to fix her up, keep on eye on Chainlove, this week they have had several times SRAM X7 rear der for 32.99, and X7 shifters for 34.99. You can pick up a 9 spd cassette for around 30 bucks and an X7 front der for 21.99 at Greenfish Sports. For aound $120 you get a brand new drivetrain .Chainlove also has had Avid BB7 mech brakes for around $40.
But of course once you do that, you will need new wheels, cranks, tires, seat ,bars, stem............
 

Yo Eddy

Member
Since there are 8 gears in the back is it as simple as getting a 9 or 10 speed shift setup and setting the limit screw to keep it to 8?

Your shifter is indexed for 9-10 gears, so I think setting the limit screw to keep it 8 doesn't work...but shouldn't you be able to get a 9-speed cassette to fit on your wheel?
 

walter

Fourth Party
Chainlove also has had Avid BB7 mech brakes for around $40.
But of course once you do that, you will need new wheels, cranks, tires, seat ,bars, stem............

And a new frame and fork, because I dont think his 20 year old frame and fork have disk mounts.

My vote goes for new bike:D
 

MST.ESQ

New Member
My .02... If a guy wants to throw money at something that has sentimental value as a hobby, so be it. Plus, planning and re-building a retro grouch steel hardtail is just plain fun.

I stopped off at Campmor yesterday to price out wheels, bars, etc. I now know what my wife feels like when she is in her favorite shoe department.
 

MikeP

Well-Known Member
My .02... If a guy wants to throw money at something that has sentimental value as a hobby, so be it. Plus, planning and re-building a retro grouch steel hardtail is just plain fun.

I stopped off at Campmor yesterday to price out wheels, bars, etc. I now know what my wife feels like when she is in her favorite shoe department.

Isn't the 7000 aluminum? Just sayin'
 

jerseyrides

New Member
agreed

that old hardtail with new parts will be very similiar to something new. like someone else recommended, wait till you want to go up to something that will change your riding, like a fs 29 or something.i heard those are pretty cool these days too... comparing an old hardtail to something new wont change your riding,youll just hear fewer squeaks. as long as you see no cracks in your frame, ride it. my 2003 ht jamis is still going strong. just picked up a fs, doesnt fit, and now im just gonna go back to my jamis, while i am trying to sell the titus. solid, solid bike, if your interested. good price too!

happy trails
 
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