26er SS frame

warcricket

Like a Jerk
the on one's slot drop outs will make removing the rear wheel a little tougher. that being said, my dj frame will have something very similar because sliders and ebbs are too expensive to buy as individual parts.
 

al415

Banned
I had an On-One 29er frame that I sold without riding. The construction and finish were of a high quality considering the price of the frame. I've never heard anyone say it rides "harshly" for steel. Unless a steel frame is really overbuilt, or made of 18-23 high tensile, I don't see how it could be "harsh"

I'd go with the On-One and a rear bolt on.
 

al415

Banned
QR's are over rated! Get yerself a nice Campagnolo peanut-butter wrench and you're sorted. I'm not a big fan of chain tensioners when they can be avoided. Of the two SS bikes I ride the ENO'd bike is a smoother operation than the Paul's tensioned bike, sorry for not offering a more scientific explanation for my preference.
 

FFT

Gay & Stuffy
I've seen steel dirt jumpers us a tap to thread the optimal spot in the drop out and use a set screw to maintain chain tension. It is simpler than my explanation and very effective.
 

don

Well-Known Member
QR's are over rated! Get yerself a nice Campagnolo peanut-butter wrench and you're sorted. I'm not a big fan of chain tensioners when they can be avoided. Of the two SS bikes I ride the ENO'd bike is a smoother operation than the Paul's tensioned bike, sorry for not offering a more scientific explanation for my preference.

Yup, or you can just get a 15mm spanner from Sears and mod it but cutting and drilling. The Campy wrench will be much slicker in the end.

Or go with a Phil Wood hub that has a thread-on setup where you can use your allen key. Phil Wood threaded w/ White freewheel will be treats.

If you go solid axle, you can get these little alloy nuts to save a bit of weight and look cool too: http://www.danscomp.com/437075.php?cat=PARTS

He may still need a tensioner but I'd go with a cleaner/smaller one from Knight: http://www.knightbikeco.com/products-gumdropz.htm I like Surly stuff but those tensioners look like you've got a trailer hitch on the back of the bike. Just get one for the drive side. A bolt-on hub will be strong enough for almost all disk forces.

FFT's tip with the set screw sounds like a neat option too and I'm guessing the On-One has beefy enough drops that it wouldn't be an issue.
 

alex_k

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the great info guys. I 'm going to use this hub at least with one tensioner (driver side):

hope_pro_2_single_speed_hub.jpg
 

jdog

Shop: Halter's Cycles
Shop Keep
Is it true that most frames with sliders/track ends will accept a 650b size wheel&tire?
Jim

It is a totally case by case thing. There are 2 650 b tires now. The smaller one will fit in a lot more bikes.
 

Ian F

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the great info guys. I 'm going to use this hub at least with one tensioner (driver side):

AHHH! Hope! (runs away screaming...)

Oh wait... just the hub... ok... I feel better now... Those are nice. :rolleyes:

(had a few bad experiences with Hope brakes...)
 
Top