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Yeah, your setup might not work great. The hose (or dropper housing) needs to be maximally short for under-the-stem routing. Creates more problems--such as having to remove the dropper lever from the bar, remove the stem/spacers, and hope you have enough to get the housing into the post when...

I don't, sorry. Remove a bottom faceplate screw entirely, and slip it in the gap, then reinstall it/torque to spec. Clip the hose into it when you're done (but that looks way too long to get it to cooperate right now).

BTW, those brakes come with little plastic clippies that go underneath the bottom stem faceplate screws (between the faceplate/stem) to clip those hoses into. Keeps the rear brake from looking like that.

Not that I've seen around here. They've got Ag diesel, compressed nat gas, propane, and in the real podunk towns they sell kerosene.

Depends on what you're using it for. A simple beam wrench is sufficient for 99% of what a non-professional needs. If you desire a click or digital, buy one that comes with a calibration certificate. Literally nothing else matters--brand, price, mechanism, etc. I've used Unior, Snap-On, CDI...

Can't speak for SRAM stuff, but all of the Shimano equipment can get by on 1-3 charges depending on use. A small, 1-cell battery bank can charge it completely overnight. If you wire the shifters (Ultegra/DA only), you increase the battery life on the new generation drastically, as it is not...

It's still slower, but there's an update/option for non-ebike use. It sweeps the cassette faster.

Large shops that sell BOA equipment will also usually have a "rescue kit" for them, since BOA provides a lifetime warranty on all the parts. That said, usually only large corporate stores that focus on repair/service (so Ski Barn and REI...). If you're near a shop that sells your product...

Aside: remember that Linkglide 9/10/11 is a distinct gear spacing from all those in non-linkglide. You will get skipping/balking if you try to use a "regular" cassette.

Eastern Monmouth (Tatum/Thompson/etc) has crusty snow. Good for snow shoeing/sledding, not much else.

Fyi, ALL cues systems, regardless of number of gears, use 11 speed chain. Their spacing is identical regardless of number of speeds, so you only "need" to have 11 speed CUES/Linkglide derailleurs and shifters, which can be used to replace any CUES equipment in a pinch.

Call a Bondulance.

The Other received a nice copper whistle for Christmas, but the block (plastic) was glued in and needed to be adjusted. Rather than go through that particular trouble, I made a new block out of juniper. Some refining later, and there is a nice friction-fit block. It needs final voicing...

You could make that with a couple of sheets of pink foam glued together and a hot knife, just saying.

Two new members of the family: It's been about 2 years since we've had a cat, and everyone was pretty sad about it. We went to the SPCA (who had almost no cats!) and found Nina (tortie) and Matheus (orange). Nina decided to stick her foot out and put it on my chest, them hug the cage...

NGL, that's pretty awesome looking. For $50, I'd hang it in the garage as wall art.

@Patrick it's not really something that can be offered as a solid guide, since it requires modifying whatever you have. To be fair, there's a few ways to skin this particular cat, including using a (manual) annular cutter to pare back the dropout hoods, too. Not all forks would work there, and...

For those playing along at home: it worked great. There is even room with the current brake caliper to shave another millimeter off the brake side, so there's practically no problem. A nice Float 32 resurrected, and several parts saved from the landfill.

Deboosting Serviced an old, used fork for a coworker to replace a fork-shaped object. Found a bottom headset/crown race/equipment to mount it into the bike. Rebuilt a busted wheel with a new rim. Total cost: a 29" tube (because they did not want to use it tubeless). We got the fork on...

I use a drill bit that is about 1/2-2/3 the size of the eyelet I am trying to make, then I clamp it in a vise. Make the eyelet first by wrapping the wire around the bit (you should be able to get a full circle without tools if you are using a full length rod). Clamp a second bit into the vise...