The DIY thread - DIYourself

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Was there ever a wax ring? It looks like whatever seal you had may have been installed incorrectly and progressively worsen to the point of leaking more and more over time. And that is my professional IT opinion...
 
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rlb

Well-Known Member
Was there ever a wax ring? It looks like whatever seal you had may have been installed incorrectly and progressively worsen to the point of leaking more and more over time. And that is my professional IT opinion...

Yeah there was a ring. I think the problem is this:

Flange is 1/4 below floor on the left side, and 1/4 above on the right. I think 1/2 across the flange is a bit too much.

I have it together with the waxless seal @Patrick linked, but this is only a temporary solution. You need to use a spacer if the flange is below floor, and no spacer if it's above. I put it in w/o spacer because the toilet rocked with it. While it's curei not leaking, I do not have high confidence in this long-term.
 

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Got a free compressor, suckered @Patrick into helping me get it home, then converted it to single phase. Couldn't find a motor with the same frame size so I had to make an adapter plate and get a new hub for the pulley. The starter is slightly undersized but it'll work until I can get a new one. I didn't put it where I originally wanted in the building but I'll live with it. Next project related to this will be plumbing a distribution system throughout the building. Now I can use my sandblaster, paint guns, airbrush, automotive air tools, and put an air motor on my hydraulic press.

It's amazing how one piece of equipment can transform a small workshop.


is that a 60 or an 80 gallon? im still procrastinating on putting the plumbing into my garage, i have a 50ft spring retracting hose real (1/2) that drives my tools as needed just fine so laziness has won out so far(almost 3 years later)
 

ekuhn

Well-Known Member
Yeah there was a ring. I think the problem is this:

Flange is 1/4 below floor on the left side, and 1/4 above on the right. I think 1/2 across the flange is a bit too much.

I have it together with the waxless seal @Patrick linked, but this is only a temporary solution. You need to use a spacer if the flange is below floor, and no spacer if it's above. I put it in w/o spacer because the toilet rocked with it. While it's curei not leaking, I do not have high confidence in this long-term.

Can cut old flange out from inside and put in one of those insert flanges. May have to spend some time chipping back the tile tho.

 
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iman29

Well-Known Member
my insomnia is kicking in so since I experienced this same thing before I will try to tell you what saved me from this.

same basic issue but my downstairs bathroom is on a slab so it was just occasionally leaking into the floor and under the vinyl tiles. The old flange wasn’t level and when I took the toilet out I figured out it was because the toilet would slightly move and sometimes leak water under the seal. When I went to fix the flange it was and old school lead sealed one and the lead seal broke off. Plus around the flange there was a big gap of missing concrete almost like this had been repaired before I bought it.

I got lucky the local plumbing supply was open (on a Sunday! ) and when I called he said come down now he would wait. He sold me one of these which has hex nuts inside that expand the rubber ring and gets inserted into the pipe. Then I had to level the floor and backfill with hydraulic cement and let it set. But this also let me set it level with the floor so no ships needed and I used a regular XL wax ring just in case.

You may not need that step if it’s temporary but you might need to chip out some tile and mud around the old one to get it out.


C8A4E291-D78A-4762-9F43-DADFE8BDCEAC.png
 

jklett

Well-Known Member
is that a 60 or an 80 gallon? im still procrastinating on putting the plumbing into my garage, i have a 50ft spring retracting hose real (1/2) that drives my tools as needed just fine so laziness has won out so far(almost 3 years later)
60. I really have to do some sort of plumbing, even if it's just tacking up hoses and teeing them off for drops because I'm tired of pulling a hose and knocking shit over or tripping over it. I could probably get away with a reel if I actually took the time to clean and organize the place but where's the fun in that?
 

ekuhn

Well-Known Member
my insomnia is kicking in so since I experienced this same thing before I will try to tell you what saved me from this.

same basic issue but my downstairs bathroom is on a slab so it was just occasionally leaking into the floor and under the vinyl tiles. The old flange wasn’t level and when I took the toilet out I figured out it was because the toilet would slightly move and sometimes leak water under the seal. When I went to fix the flange it was and old school lead sealed one and the lead seal broke off. Plus around the flange there was a big gap of missing concrete almost like this had been repaired before I bought it.

I got lucky the local plumbing supply was open (on a Sunday! ) and when I called he said come down now he would wait. He sold me one of these which has hex nuts inside that expand the rubber ring and gets inserted into the pipe. Then I had to level the floor and backfill with hydraulic cement and let it set. But this also let me set it level with the floor so no ships needed and I used a regular XL wax ring just in case.

You may not need that step if it’s temporary but you might need to chip out some tile and mud around the old one to get it out.


View attachment 130286
Exactly.
 

ekuhn

Well-Known Member
60. I really have to do some sort of plumbing, even if it's just tacking up hoses and teeing them off for drops because I'm tired of pulling a hose and knocking shit over or tripping over it. I could probably get away with a reel if I actually took the time to clean and organize the place but where's the fun in that?
My buddy used this for his setup along with some harbor freight reels. I think I’m going to do the same.

 

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
My buddy used this for his setup along with some harbor freight reels. I think I’m going to do the same.


Pipe is surprisingly cheap, even from Grainger (which means you can definitely get it cheaper).

BTW, depending on the weight of your tools/height of the ceiling, choosing the right coiled hose could absolutely suffice. Can't see your manifold, but get a condenser on there, too, if you don't have one already
 

Strugglebus

Well-Known Member
I put this together a couple weeks ago

A723700E-4255-4E30-AA80-67D311936D0F.jpeg637D74F8-494F-4982-8E75-6082D91BF572.jpeg

Yes there is a ~5 inch QP base and 6 pieces of 20” long rebar holding it in place.

getting ready for install day. I did not do this myself, however I played apprentice/ tool bitch for a friend of mine. Happy to have A/C again.

11DF6E6B-5DC3-4D97-A1E3-3A23097F4677.jpeg
 

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Some days all you need is a small victory.

Screens on the kitchen window were shot. Previous resident had a big dog, and apparently she left the window open.
As such, holy screens, and we haven’t opened this window since we moved in.

Mrs Manic puts it on my radar, no problem. Rescreened a few in my day.

Today I decided to surprise her with this while she was on a training call.
Started with a thorough cleaning- sorely needed.
A65B18E7-38A9-4F57-905A-4AE107A077CA.jpeg

9FF42775-30D1-4D2E-9D69-F781F97229D8.jpeg

856D215D-5142-4464-B90F-0D7767B7D0C0.jpeg
Just minting MTBUs here.

Wait a tick- that’s not spline!
Looked like it was crimped, and not serviceable.
8F40B426-25EA-4DD3-ACF9-F38C106BF784.jpeg

Off to the Andersen site to see how much replacements are-
Holy crap- $180 for TruScene.
F that. That’s half the cost of a whole window.

YouTube to the rescue.
It can be done. Just pull out the channels.
8C38374F-EA45-4655-92D2-1DF9BFA9C917.jpeg
Didn’t have the right size spline, so off to Homies. It calls for .225”, but .220” will have to do. (.220, .221, whatever it takes).
0C14132F-F295-4F5D-87C9-E0B5BA547763.jpeg
I have always done these in a continuous run of spline, but internet pro tip: do top and bottom first to get even tension, then the sides.

Didn’t have pony clamps, but we got chip clips out the wazoo.
173E1446-4A7C-43F1-939A-36DDC410C498.jpeg

Victory
424D9D20-ED49-467B-BE91-9970C81F132F.jpeg

E364D52F-8EF3-4B7C-88F2-0DC0F32CB835.jpeg
 

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Also this weekend was cleaning up the Grillzebo.

House came with a hottub, but we aren’t hottub folks.
Do love me some grilling though.
When we moved in, I Sawzalled the tub into quarters, and into a dumpster.

Now covered grilling year round:
A80606C1-DFFE-458A-8305-47857219D7EA.jpeg
L to R: propane, Weber Smoky Mt, Weber kettle.

It becomes a catchall, and then you gotta move 8 things to roll out the grill.
Not now though
5D779647-9698-4774-AA0E-61CCD472B4DD.jpeg

On the to do list: outdoor speakers with inline volume control.
Aw f yeah
 
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jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Do you belong to the split log siding tribe/brotherhood as well? Have you ever had to replace any boards and if so had any luck in finding some of the right size? My siding is two different types of split log (I suspect because they could not find the right boards when they added the front extension to the original building) and I could not find either...
Yes- I hope you have proper construction under yours (ours are nailed to the studs- no plywood, no vapor barrier- lol).
Haven’t had difficulty finding them though. Northeast building supply in Andover I think?
 

rlb

Well-Known Member
@ekuhn I have one of those,
Can cut old flange out from inside and put in one of those insert flanges. May have to spend some time chipping back the tile tho.


Considering this, but I'm not confident the subfloor will hold a new flange property at this point especially without the thinset. I also picked up that kit, but not too confident since the instructions are confusing and I dont see how it will seal to the existing pipe.

my insomnia is kicking in so since I experienced this same thing before I will try to tell you what saved me from this.

same basic issue but my downstairs bathroom is on a slab so it was just occasionally leaking into the floor and under the vinyl tiles. The old flange wasn’t level and when I took the toilet out I figured out it was because the toilet would slightly move and sometimes leak water under the seal. When I went to fix the flange it was and old school lead sealed one and the lead seal broke off. Plus around the flange there was a big gap of missing concrete almost like this had been repaired before I bought it.

I got lucky the local plumbing supply was open (on a Sunday! ) and when I called he said come down now he would wait. He sold me one of these which has hex nuts inside that expand the rubber ring and gets inserted into the pipe. Then I had to level the floor and backfill with hydraulic cement and let it set. But this also let me set it level with the floor so no ships needed and I used a regular XL wax ring just in case.

You may not need that step if it’s temporary but you might need to chip out some tile and mud around the old one to get it out.


View attachment 130286

I did see a few videos showing that adapter, but as I understand it you're not supposed to use any expanding type seals in lead since it's so soft. Also still have the subfloor problem. If I pull the floor I will have someone come and replace the lead with PVC.
 

iman29

Well-Known Member
@ekuhn I have one of those,


Considering this, but I'm not confident the subfloor will hold a new flange property at this point especially without the thinset. I also picked up that kit, but not too confident since the instructions are confusing and I dont see how it will seal to the existing pipe.



I did see a few videos showing that adapter, but as I understand it you're not supposed to use any expanding type seals in lead since it's so soft. Also still have the subfloor problem. If I pull the floor I will have someone come and replace the lead with PVC.
Subfloor problem true. Just figured to get it back running that could be an interim solution.

I had the plumbing store recommend that to me and I brought him detailed pictures at his request and he was so cool to make sure I was doing it right. He didn’t mention anything about the lead when I explained the old flange came loose but like you said it’s more of an issue with space down below and you need to be confident it will hold. Good luck.
 
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Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
Some days all you need is a small victory.

Screens on the kitchen window were shot. Previous resident had a big dog, and apparently she left the window open.
As such, holy screens, and we haven’t opened this window since we moved in.

Mrs Manic puts it on my radar, no problem. Rescreened a few in my day.

Today I decided to surprise her with this while she was on a training call.
Started with a thorough cleaning- sorely needed.
View attachment 130364

View attachment 130372

View attachment 130365
Just minting MTBUs here.

Wait a tick- that’s not spline!
Looked like it was crimped, and not serviceable.
View attachment 130367

Off to the Andersen site to see how much replacements are-
Holy crap- $180 for TruScene.
F that. That’s half the cost of a whole window.

YouTube to the rescue.
It can be done. Just pull out the channels.
View attachment 130368
Didn’t have the right size spline, so off to Homies. It calls for .225”, but .220” will have to do. (.220, .221, whatever it takes).
View attachment 130366
I have always done these in a continuous run of spline, but internet pro tip: do top and bottom first to get even tension, then the sides.

Didn’t have pony clamps, but we got chip clips out the wazoo.
View attachment 130369

Victory
View attachment 130370

View attachment 130371

liked for mr mom reference.
Also this weekend was cleaning up the Grillzebo.

House came with a hottub, but we aren’t hottub folks.
Do love me some grilling though.
When we moved in, I Sawzalled the tub into quarters, and into a dumpster.

Now covered grilling year round:
View attachment 130379
L to R: propane, Weber Smoky Mt, Weber kettle.

It becomes a catchall, and then you gotta move 8 things to roll out the grill.
Not now though
View attachment 130378

On the to do list: outdoor speakers with inline volume control.
Aw f yeah

you need kettle pizza.
seriously - da bomb.
 

iman29

Well-Known Member
I have had this grill since 2003 and the only thing I have ever really had to replace are these “flavorizer” bars which only last a few years. I Also only changed the gas tubes and burners about 2 years ago. This thing might not be the biggest grill but it’s old reliable.

Semi annual clean out and scrape down As we use this thing all year round I don’t even ever cover it.

crossed this off the Honey do list and got rewarded with time to ride this afternoon before dinner.
AAD4B146-93CD-4D05-BAC4-65C37873F0EF.jpeg3CB95E9E-4F32-43CC-A1A1-FC8995B641A2.jpeg5CD6515D-80B3-4B78-ABA7-B50B4F54CB20.jpeg
 
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