The DIY thread - DIYourself
- Thread starter rlb
- Start date
if your going to do the brake flush yourself dont waste your time doing it manually, just buy a pressure bleeder for it, makes it a single man job and you can be done in under an hour including setup/cleanup.
I use the appropriate motive pressure bleed cap hooked up to my air compressor though a regulator, no more than 10psi and keep an eye on the reservoir, you dont want to do the job twice.
I use the appropriate motive pressure bleed cap hooked up to my air compressor though a regulator, no more than 10psi and keep an eye on the reservoir, you dont want to do the job twice.
Jbyrd13
Member
It depends on what tools you have and access. You will need to place the car on a lift or on jackstands.
Procedure: once the car is off the ground and all wheels have been removed, open the brake fluid reservoir. Wear gloves, ensure you have clean rags or shop towels and either a spray bottle of dish soap and water or isopropyl alcohol-for cleaning up any spilled brake fluid, which is very caustic to paint.
Use a turkey baster to suck up the majority of the old fluid, at least down to the low level. Pour in new DOT 3 fluid.
Next, start on the driver's front and attach a bleed hose (you can make one with tubing and a water bottle or use a hand vacuum pump). Using a 8 or 10mm wrench (can't remember size for sure) open the bleed port on the caliper and pull fluid into the sump until fresh/clean fluid is observed. Ensure you check the fluid in the reservoir before and after each wheel. Add fresh fluid to keep the level filled.
Order of bleed: Driver front; Passenger rear; Driver rear; Passenger front. Use the soapy water, isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner to clean any residual fluid.
If you do not use a vacuum pump, have a friend help to pump the brake while you bleed the caliper.
This sounds way involved, but it is pretty straight forward.
Average cost from the dealership will be around $85 - $110
Why is the bleed order not the typical longest run to shortest run?
(Usualy passenger rear driver rear pasenger front driver front). Why does subaru (im assuming they published this somewhere) differ? Or do they have weird routing?
(Usualy passenger rear driver rear pasenger front driver front). Why does subaru (im assuming they published this somewhere) differ? Or do they have weird routing?
rlb
Well-Known Member
Will likely go this way if I do it. I've done gravity in the past, which works but is slow. I tried vacuum too, not as great as it sounds (difficult to get a seal on the bleeder screw).
jklett
Well-Known Member
It's in the detached workshop. Mold's probably the least hazardous material in that place, I got stuff that the msds sheets are like 4 pages long. I'll bleach it when I get around to cleaning the place.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
I might have crappy project in the near future.
Damn you to those you decide to stucco your walls. Ceilings I can live with, but walls? And in multiple rooms?
So what is the best way with good results? I've read about two (1) moisten and scrape or (2) skim with compound. I originally considered sanding, why wouldn't that work?
Damn you to those you decide to stucco your walls. Ceilings I can live with, but walls? And in multiple rooms?
So what is the best way with good results? I've read about two (1) moisten and scrape or (2) skim with compound. I originally considered sanding, why wouldn't that work?
jklett
Well-Known Member
Another option is to go over it with 1/4" drywall. You'll have to redo the trim and bump out the boxes going that route but that's not a huge job. Whatever you do, don't try to sand it off. No matter how well you seal off the room that dust will get everywhere. Especially if you have forced air.
iman29
Well-Known Member
+1 for this solution. The dust will be everywhere forever. Ventilation system will spread it.
I had someone come in and skim coat a stairwell for me after we removed paneling and I regret it because everything that touches
It chips a little dent in it. Would have been better off 1/4” drywall.
rlb
Well-Known Member
+1 on not sanding, way too much dust. And what's in that shit anyway?
I've done 1/4 over existing walls. The most annoying part was the door jambs, dealing w/ the rest was easy. However, over stucco that might not work because you're not laying it over a smooth surface and 1/4 drywall is very flexible. Also need to consider availability of sheets > 8ft, those might be tough to find.
If moisten and scrape didn't work, I would almost lean towards pulling it all out and laying fresh 1/2 drywall, but that's me...
rlb
Well-Known Member
Did they use the premix bucket crap? Or did they mix it on site? The premix stuff is so brittle it's not even funny.
Demo to stud and new drywall is the only answer otherwise your doing it wrong
this is my plan eventually with the plaster walls in our house (the textured kind have made me officially HATE PLASTER)
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Viable, only second to getting into a time machine and go back to the day before whenever he decided to put stucco on the walls...
rick81721
Lothar
That's an inside wall?? Knockdown texture is popular down here - our entire interior is done that way:
iman29
Well-Known Member
Probably. It’s been too long I don’t remember. But it’s in the small stairwell by the kitchen and I don’t have the energy to ever take it down and redo it so I keep the color paint handy and the little bucket of fast dry spackle
And just periodically touch it up. Like when we have people over. ??♂️
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
Yes inside. I'm considering keeping it as I only will have a month to 6 weeks to get it ready for summer rental. I'm going to see how it's passed off in Flo-rida. Are they accents or the entire wall? What about celings? Any trim?
rick81721
Lothar
Our house is done on all walls and ceilings. Trim is standard.
Your doorways use a rounded corner bead (your pic), rather than wood trim.
What about your windows?
Not sure about Walt's situ.