Advice on a new Bottom Bracket

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
For double the price, for the same overall functionality, seems like waiting is the better option.

NOW, once they have droppers that you dont have to weight the post to drop it. THAT will be a major game changer. I think someone has one in the works...


you definitely have a point, and im FAR from rushing out to buy a new dropper (even the AXS derailluer and shifter im not sprinting towards) but its nice to get impressions if i can from real world people.
 

Steve Vai

Endurance Guy: Tolerates most of us.
In a super crazy coincidence, I am doing this upgrade on your bike as we speak. GX Eagle cassette, chain, and crank, AXS RD and shifter.

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Xler8

Well-Known Member
Once you go AXS, it’ll be hard to go back to cable. I’m sure Shimano won’t be far behind so it’ll be interesting to see what they have up their sleeve. It’s only a matter of time until wireless is the new “standard” IMO.
 

Dingo

Well-Known Member
I'm very happy with XT Di2, 2 years of clean effortless shifting. Except the time a stick destroyed the rear derailleur at sourlands. There was no saving it, cable or electric. On a brighter note, no more cable shifted for me.
 

Xler8

Well-Known Member
Whatever you do, get a DUB crank, they are seriously amazing. No matter the level.

I put a DUB crank on the new bike and everything went together fine, torqued to spec, but I went to take it off and it feels as though the bolt get welded to the spindle. It won’t budge at all. Almost busted a blood vessel trying to break the thing free. Never had a problem with older versions of SRAM cranks.

Have you come across issues with the bolt being ridiculously tight on DUB cranks to the point where the Allen wrench is about to snap?
 

Steve Vai

Endurance Guy: Tolerates most of us.
I put a DUB crank on the new bike and everything went together fine, torqued to spec, but I went to take it off and it feels as though the bolt get welded to the spindle. It won’t budge at all. Almost busted a blood vessel trying to break the thing free. Never had a problem with older versions of SRAM cranks.

Have you come across issues with the bolt being ridiculously tight on DUB cranks to the point where the Allen wrench is about to snap?

You need to prep the bolt before putting it on. If it was dry they're a bear to get off. Try pulling the bolt cap off and greasing that.
 

stb222

Love Drunk
Jerk Squad
I put a DUB crank on the new bike and everything went together fine, torqued to spec, but I went to take it off and it feels as though the bolt get welded to the spindle. It won’t budge at all. Almost busted a blood vessel trying to break the thing free. Never had a problem with older versions of SRAM cranks.

Have you come across issues with the bolt being ridiculously tight on DUB cranks to the point where the Allen wrench is about to snap?
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Xler8

Well-Known Member
You need to prep the bolt before putting it on. If it was dry they're a bear to get off. Try pulling the bolt cap off and greasing that.

I made sure everything had plenty of lube prior to assembly.

Will greasing the bolt cap help the bolt break free if it’s all assembled?
 

Xler8

Well-Known Member
Yes. Lube isn't prep though.

There was mention of it going together dry and it would be tough getting off so just assumed it would be lube as far as prep goes.

Is there some other secret prep that SRAM does not make public?
 

Steve Vai

Endurance Guy: Tolerates most of us.
There was mention of it going together dry and it would be tough getting off so just assumed it would be lube as far as prep goes.

Is there some other secret prep that SRAM does not make public?

It's not a Sram thing, whenever anything threads into another thing, it needs prep. And I mean anything. Everything. All the things. From every company that makes anything with threads. It's basic mechanical knowledge so most tech videos or whatever will never mention it. They assume that if you can figure out what wrench you need, you know. Like lefty loosy rightly tighty isn't mentioned when you buy pedals, but I've had plenty of folks put those on backwards.
 
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