weight targets and gearing

qclabrat

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
I noticed entry level CX bikes come in about 20-22 lbs, is that the norm? was personally thinking bit lighter in 19-20 range. what are weight should I be targeting for clincher wheels and tires?

Also most bikes appear to come in around these gearing specs 46/36 and 11-30, since I'm hobbling one together, have some flexibility to go bigger or smaller. Any thoughts on going wider in range in the back or changes the front rings, I'm fairly sure I'd like to keep th a 2X setup.
 
For entry level, yes those are normal numbers. Slightly beefier frames and wheels, clincher tires, and cheaper components than those on more expensive CX bikes. Same really goes for any style of bike when it comes to price and weight, but yeah, those seemed like normal weights when I was digging around.

As for gearing, I don't have the experience personally, but from reading around and looking at said entry level bikes, it seems about average. You'd only mess with the cassette if you went 1x, but that would also depend on front ring size and your strength. I think 11-28 seemed more common.
 
As for weight you get what you pay for, if you are running disc brakes automatically add 2-3 pounds for the same cost to $100 more expensive.

Gearing wise if you are planning on building this as a race bike with a double 46 is really way too big. I used one last year and completely under utilized my cassette. Even my 44 is a little large, though Nittany was a slower race this year. For a small ring depending on your strength consider a 36, if you wanna spin and straight chill up hills 34.

On the back with a double 11-28 is great.

If you are trying to build something to casually race but also road/multisurface or trail ride consider the 46-34 and maybe an 11-28, 11-32 if you wanna straight chill and spin up the steepest trail.

My first year as a Cat 4/5 racer I did 25 races on a 52/39 11-32. My bike weighed ~22-23 pounds. The fact of the matter is anything will work. You almost have to try to really choose wrong.

If you go 1x you may be able to choose wrong easier.

I like tighter gearing in the rear because I like finding that right gear. You don't need to have the matching little/big ring combo speced by the manufacturer and you even dont need a ramped/pinned big ring for it to shift right. In fact no one makes a sub 46T ramped big ring.

My 44T All City to 39T Sram shifts fine.
 
I wouldn't get too hung up on weight to get started. a 22lb bike will be a boat load of fun. Any aluminum frame/fork combo with a 2x and clinchers should be close to that.

You can run a 38t in the front with a 28t rear and ride just about anything. I think most compact cross cranksets are 36/46? Anything else will just be overlap, which is just fine.
 
46/36 crank & 11/28 cassette will work for almost all races. If you need lower that 36/28, you'll most likely be running up the hill with everyone else. As @The Heckler said, the 46 is a little much for races, but if you plan on using it on the road at all in the winter/foul weather, then stick with the 46 front. The stock wheels with a lot of the "entry level" bikes are HEAVY. A wheel upgrade there saves at least a pound. (Stan's IronCross Comp shaved ~1.3lbs vs the stock Axis garbage wheels on my Crux, and the Comps are the heaviest of the three in the IronCross series)
 
pearl said:
just for arguments sake, what race would not be good for this? maybe if they had a run up to Everest?
Click to expand...

Fair enough... will work for all races. Point was that 36/28 is low enough. I don't think a 30 out back is necessary unless you're running 1x with a 38 or 40, in which case maybe a 32 in back w/medium cage mech? I dunno.

I'd love to switch to 1x, maybe on the next bike.
 
Delish said:
don't forget that 1lbs does not always equal 1lbs. an extra pound of rotating mass is going going to suck a whole lot more than a pound of water in the bottle cage. I'd take a heavy bike with light wheels vs the opposite any day.
Click to expand...

then what would be a reasonable weight for wheels including tires?
 
The Heckler said:
I like tighter gearing in the rear because I like finding that right gear. You don't need to have the matching little/big ring combo speced by the manufacturer and you even dont need a ramped/pinned big ring for it to shift right. In fact no one makes a sub 46T ramped big ring.

My 44T All City to 39T Sram shifts fine.
Click to expand...

anyone try a mtb triple with a 44T large ring?
 
pearl said:
what is the purpose of this bike? touring or cross racing?
Click to expand...
at most 1-2 races, and I have a rather weak upper body
skinny_man.jpg
 
I'm built even closer to that.

"reasonable weight" is in the eye of the beholder. Lightness costs exponentially. a 20-22lbs bike isn't going to make any appreciable difference in your finishing position at a CX race when compared to fitness, technique, cornering ability, and willingness to suffer. Those are the things that matter. Forget about the weight of the bike and just go have fun racing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom