1Up Super Duty Bolt Tightening Specs? (lost a glide bar bolt and spacer on the highway😳)

kjarrett

kjarrett

Well-Known Member
My otherwise friggin’ awesome @1upusa Super Duty rack decided to eject this glide bar spacer and bolt somewhere between Killington, VT and my home in South Jersey on Sunday. (Really hoping it just skittered off the road safely, otherwise it could do some damage, especially if it hit someone’s windshield.)

I had noticed over the past few uses that the glide bar wasn’t moving smoothly, but figured it was because the rack was so dirty (I am cleaning it this week).

1Up support kicks ass of course and a replacement spacer and bolt are inbound. Free of charge.

Is this a common problem? Do I need to check bolts on this bad boy regularly?

And, any tips for cleaning and lubricating everything?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Interesting enough I bought a new 1up rack last year shortly after a rivet type part fell out was really disappointed that it happened so quick but found it in my driveway before I could fix it or contact 1up my bumper and hitch mount rotted off my truck got everything fixed put the rivet back in and tapped the edges a bit all good now
 
shrpshtr325 said:
Blue if you might take it apart later red if it's a forever part
Click to expand...

That's what the heat gun/torch/soldering gun is for. There are two grades of red, one good to ~280°ish, and one good to 500°ish. The latter is described as high temperature on the bottle. That one is for real permanent...the other one is just an aggressive hold that requires heat to remove.

Depending on the size of the heat-sinking effect, pick your heat, apply 20-30 seconds until you smell delicious jam (not kidding, Henkel, at least, smells like 'berry'), then remove.
 
They really don't make them like they used to. I've had my standard rack for over 10 years, taken it up to Canada, down to Florida and everywhere in between and it's been flawless. Nothing ever fell off or even come loose as far as I can tell and I leave the rack on my car all year round. I believe they're still the best rack out there, though.
 
Karate Monkey said:
That's what the heat gun/torch/soldering gun is for. There are two grades of red, one good to ~280°ish, and one good to 500°ish. The latter is described as high temperature on the bottle. That one is for real permanent...the other one is just an aggressive hold that requires heat to remove.

Depending on the size of the heat-sinking effect, pick your heat, apply 20-30 seconds until you smell delicious jam (not kidding, Henkel, at least, smells like 'berry'), then remove.
Click to expand...

i mean, technically anything is removable with the right tools :rolleyes: 🤣
 
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without seeing the bolt head it looks like it could be a grade 8 bolt. Home Depot should have, just not sure on the length. If not Fastenal, McMaster, or even amazon will have.
 
ekuhn said:
without seeing the bolt head it looks like it could be a grade 8 bolt. Home Depot should have, just not sure on the length. If not Fastenal, McMaster, or even amazon will have.
Click to expand...
5/16"-18 bolt that's 4.5" long for reference.

I replaced mine with stainless. I can't see how that bolt would break to be honest...
 
iLuveketchup said:
One of the bolts (to the arms) sheared off while on the way to Creek. Heard a loud pop and noticed the bike leaning to one side on the rear view mirror.
Click to expand...

Santapez said:
5/16"-18 bolt that's 4.5" long for reference.

I replaced mine with stainless. I can't see how that bolt would break to be honest...
Click to expand...

i have one if needed. I installed the fatbike kit.
 
Santapez said:
5/16"-18 bolt that's 4.5" long for reference.

I replaced mine with stainless. I can't see how that bolt would break to be honest...
Click to expand...

After thinking about it, the shank isn't supporting the shear forces. Looks like the threaded part is.? Might also be a tension force - hard braking would have the bike moving forward with a decent force and a long arm?

Now I need to inspect mine!
 
Patrick said:
After thinking about it, the shank isn't supporting the shear forces. Looks like the threaded part is.? Might also be a tension force - hard braking would have the bike moving forward with a decent force and a long arm?

Now I need to inspect mine!
Click to expand...
Possibly overtightening? The weakest area would be exactly where it separated.

The part design is a little of an afterthought, they should have used one bolt on each side of the rail, a sleeve over each bolt partially sunken in the rail and two washers to make sure the friction doesn't eat on the brace/rail...
 
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serviceguy said:
Possibly overtightening? The weakest area would be exactly where it separated.

The part design is a little of an afterthought, they should have used one bolt on each side of the rail, a sleeve over each bolt partially sunken in the rail and two washers to make sure the friction doesn't eat on the brace/rail...
Click to expand...
Can't really overtighten. If you do the arm won't move. It's got a nylock nut and it's tightened enough to allow it to move but not have slop.

It's an OK design, doesn't need to be overly complicated with 10 more parts. I doubt these break often.
 
serviceguy said:
Possibly overtightening? The weakest area would be exactly where it separated.

The part design is a little of an afterthought, they should have used one bolt on each side of the rail, a sleeve over each bolt partially sunken in the rail and two washers to make sure the friction doesn't eat on the brace/rail...
Click to expand...

assuming it is a shear failure all they need to do is get a longer shoulder bolt so that the shear is not over the threads, no reason to sleeve it in such a low load use case.

could also simply thread a shoulder bolt in from each side, they make bolts self locking bolts with nylon patches in the threads
 
shrpshtr325 said:
assuming it is a shear failure all they need to do is get a longer shoulder bolt so that the shear is not over the threads, no reason to sleeve it in such a low load use case.

could also simply thread a shoulder bolt in from each side, they make bolts self locking bolts with nylon patches in the threads
Click to expand...
I may have a slight tendency to overengineer / overbuild stuff. I would still retain a double washer as bushing. Also, the partially sunken sleeve would be an safeguard in case the bolt falls off...kind of.
 
Santapez said:
Can't really overtighten. If you do the arm won't move. It's got a nylock nut and it's tightened enough to allow it to move but not have slop.

It's an OK design, doesn't need to be overly complicated with 10 more parts. I doubt these break often.
Click to expand...
You can still overtighten it, then when it doesn't move loosen it up. The damage is done.
 
Wow, this thread escalated quickly.

What are you all using for lubrication of the pivots, etc.?

Thanks, kj
 
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