What have you done to your bike today?

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
The greater good, mankind, world peace? I don’t know.

Why do I have to build my bikes with matchy-matchy components? I don’t know either but I do. Latest installment, light blue El Mariachi with new wheels and tires as well as matchy blue seat post clamp. You can’t see the hubs but they’re blue hopes, rims are WTB Asym i35. Tires are Rekon 29x2.6, they fit perfectly moving the wheel a little farther away from the the BB. It’s a little bit of a porker at 28 lbs, I wasn’t impressed he by that considering the same frame in SS is about 24 lbs. Guess I’m on a diet.

View attachment 153247

WTB rims, what a PITA to set new tires on them, same as the KOM, it takes a while for the welded seam to stop micro leaking.

really well done.
:kudos:

please rotate brake levers up.
 

iman29

Well-Known Member
The greater good, mankind, world peace? I don’t know.

Why do I have to build my bikes with matchy-matchy components? I don’t know either but I do. Latest installment, light blue El Mariachi with new wheels and tires as well as matchy blue seat post clamp. You can’t see the hubs but they’re blue hopes, rims are WTB Asym i35. Tires are Rekon 29x2.6, they fit perfectly moving the wheel a little farther away from the the BB. It’s a little bit of a porker at 28 lbs, I wasn’t impressed he by that considering the same frame in SS is about 24 lbs. Guess I’m on a diet.

View attachment 153247

WTB rims, what a PITA to set new tires on them, same as the KOM, it takes a while for the welded seam to stop micro leaking.

Looks good! I’m told because I’m more a roadie I like Matchy Matchy too.

The TimberJack I got on here already was well on its way with matching orange seat post clamp, stem spacer and cap and all the anodized bolts.

I added orange pedals and Already scoped out some orange grips I want. 😬
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
really well done.
:kudos:

please rotate brake levers up.
Thanks! If only I could find a set of RF Next SL cranks...those XT cranks were for a resto-mod build that I've been brewing for years...

Wow, those brake levers look massive. Never noticed.

I don't think I will rotate the levers, I know the rationale but for some reason they feel more comfortable like that, they're the same on the SS and the Knolly. For some reason they're a little more conventional on the fat bike.
 

Ian F

Well-Known Member
I decided the 30t chainring on the Deore cranks would get annoying quickly for how I'm likely to ride the Chameleon, so I pulled the cranks off after ordering a 34t ring and the tool for removing the lockring. Chainring compatibility for Deore cranks is slightly hard to nail down, so hopefully I ordered the right one...
 
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Steve Vai

Endurance Guy: Tolerates most of us.
One less part...

20210308_111209.jpg
 

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Which variety of pads are you using? I've never really been happy with the performance of my road discs despite a ton of fussing with setup.


this bike came with an 11 speed ultegra setup with hydraulic disc brakes, takes the shimano L03A resin pads, iv been happy with them, idk if the cooling fins are necessary, but iv never had an issue with overheating (not that we really have enough elevation in NJ to worry about that).

having only one disc brake road bike i have nothing comparable to compare it to, but its orders of magnitude better than my rim brake roadie, both as far as performance goes and ease of use. I went 3800 miles on those brake pads and didnt have to do so much as adjust the caliper position on them.

note that they do NOT stop like my mountain bikes with sram guides do, but they are two completely different animals.
 

ebarker9

Well-Known Member
this bike came with an 11 speed ultegra setup with hydraulic disc brakes, takes the shimano L03A resin pads, iv been happy with them, idk if the cooling fins are necessary, but iv never had an issue with overheating (not that we really have enough elevation in NJ to worry about that).

having only one disc brake road bike i have nothing comparable to compare it to, but its orders of magnitude better than my rim brake roadie, both as far as performance goes and ease of use. I went 3800 miles on those brake pads and didnt have to do so much as adjust the caliper position on them.

note that they do NOT stop like my mountain bikes with sram guides do, but they are two completely different animals.

I have the Ultegra hydraulics as well. Just getting that situation where particularly the front pads don't have much initial bit, I then have to pull very hard on the lever, they make terrible noises, and then grab firmly. I know that everyone will jump in with either "glazed pads!" or "contaminated pads!". And it may well be, but I've been incredibly careful to avoid contamination and I've done multiple rounds of scuffing the pad and rotor surfaces lightly with sandpaper on a flat reference surface before cleaning with isopropyl alcohol. I also get rotor rub after hard braking. They just generally seem to be more finicky to set up than any of the Shimano, SRAM, Magura, Formula, or Hope brakes that I've run on mountain bikes.

May try the resin pads as a replacement...generally not a lot of long, brake dragging descents around here so I don't know that the semi-metallic are necessary.
 

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
I have the Ultegra hydraulics as well. Just getting that situation where particularly the front pads don't have much initial bit, I then have to pull very hard on the lever, they make terrible noises, and then grab firmly. I know that everyone will jump in with either "glazed pads!" or "contaminated pads!". And it may well be, but I've been incredibly careful to avoid contamination and I've done multiple rounds of scuffing the pad and rotor surfaces lightly with sandpaper on a flat reference surface before cleaning with isopropyl alcohol. I also get rotor rub after hard braking. They just generally seem to be more finicky to set up than any of the Shimano, SRAM, Magura, Formula, or Hope brakes that I've run on mountain bikes.

May try the resin pads as a replacement...generally not a lot of long, brake dragging descents around here so I don't know that the semi-metallic are necessary.

semi-metallic pads typically are noisier than resin (and lack initial bite until they get hot), iv never run them (or felt a need for them) riding in NJ. give it a go its a cheap enough place to start.
 

Ian F

Well-Known Member
Put the Chameleon back on the wall and got the Grade off to go for a road ride after work. Shoutout to @jdog - the HED rim/Schwalbe tire combo holds air really well. More than 2 months of hanging on the wall and the tubeless tires lost very little pressure.
 

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
note that they do NOT stop like my mountain bikes with sram guides do, but they are two completely different animals.
I learned this quick on my gravel/roadie-
I had to do an emergency stop,
and the brakes themselves worked perfectly fine locking up the wheels,
but smaller contact patch and lower profile tread on tarmac, I slid for quite a bit.
That was an eye opener, and a quickly learned lesson.
 
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