Do I need to take out the spokes and lace 9 at a time like new or is there some other method?
Zip tie the rims together and move them over one at a time after loosening nipples on the built wheel.
Do I need to take out the spokes and lace 9 at a time like new or is there some other method?
Thanks, I figured there was an easier way, I owe you a beerZip tie the rims together and move them over one at a time after loosening nipples on the built wheel.
Zip tie the rims together and move them over one at a time after loosening nipples on the built wheel.
This sounds like something that sounds good on the internet but maybe not so straightforward in real life.
GLW WB
why does the Holy nipple driver cost twice that of the Park ND-1?As straightforward as it sounds. Even more straightforward with a
and not reusing nipples.
why does the Holy nipple driver cost twice that of the Park ND-1?
Seems like the offset is a better design, no?
Btw, buy a Bicycle Research driver if you want the manual, non-adjustable one. Rubberized handles /suck/ if you like to keep your tools clean.
My wheel I built this wheel for my Ingo Bike. It has a little hop.
why does the Holy nipple driver cost twice that of the Park ND-1?
Seems like the offset is a better design, no?
why a jewelers? is it for the ease to spin? Do you notch the tips or just use as is?I use a Jeweler's Screwdriver. It's the fastest set-up I can find. Nipple drivers are too complicated for their own good.
why a jewelers? is it for the ease to spin? Do you notch the tips or just use as is?
at under $10 for 100 DT brass nipples, I'm probably just going newHow bad is it to re-use nipples? I don't think I have, but I've been tempted.
at under $10 for 100 DT brass nipples, I'm probably just going new
Are yours alloy?
How bad is it to re-use nipples? I don't think I have, but I've been tempted.