Wheel build help

Delish

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Sheldon is usually the answer. Start here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
Scroll down to the "lacing" section.

The key spoke can be the one on either side of the valve stem. Just keep it consistent.
wheel01.gif

It's preferable to make the key spoke elbows-in because it makes it easier to lace up the opposing spokes (the elbows-out ones).
 

Ryan.P

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
All these instructions hurt my brain , ive always just winged it when building wheels
 

Magic

Formerly 1sh0t1b33r
Team MTBNJ Halter's
My wheels survived 10 or so cross races and 2 singletrack rides and are still alive. I used the YouTube video I posted somewhere recently. You can do it!
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
This.^

I made a mistake on my second wheel, off by one. I don’t remember ending with two spokes next to each other either, but could be wrong. If everything looks good, back out all the nipples by the same amount. You can also try to grab the hub and push it side to side in the hoop for the spokes to settle and adjust a bit.
This seems to be my same problem, need move the spokes clock wise by one. The implement is pointing to the misplaced spoke which is just right of the key spoke on the other side. The spoke should also start just to the right of the key spoke below. This is completely distracting my work today, if I don't figure this out someone's not getting their enterprise system released today...
IMG_20180717_140322.jpg
 

Juggernaut

Master of the Metaphor
This seems to be my same problem, need move the spokes clock wise by one. The implement is pointing to the misplaced spoke which is just right of the key spoke on the other side. The spoke should also start just to the right of the key spoke below. This is completely distracting my work today, if I don't figure this out someone's not getting their enterprise system released today...
View attachment 72891


Midweek releases are verboten. Or at least that’s what the A$$hats mandated.
 

Magic

Formerly 1sh0t1b33r
Team MTBNJ Halter's
wheelbuilding is knitting for men
Too bad it's expensive knitting or I would just keep buying and knitting more. It was fun while it lasted. I do still have those road hoops from you... :rolleyes:
 

Dingo

Well-Known Member
Once your past the basket weaving part, is when it gets frustrating.

Side to side runout is easy. A hop (or 2) is very difficult to adjust all while keeping spoke tension equal.

It takes time and pa·tience....
 

Mr.Moto

Well-Known Member
Once your past the basket weaving part, is when it gets frustrating.

Side to side runout is easy. A hop (or 2) is very difficult to adjust all while keeping spoke tension equal.

It takes time and pa·tience....

Exactly. I had worked a little too quickly on the rear wheel and ended up with a couple of minor hops. Then built the front wheel and spent more time on the roundness while bringing it up to tension and it came out nice. After building the front wheel, the rear wheel weighed on me enough that I had to put it back on the stand to work out most of the hop.
 

Dingo

Well-Known Member
Exactly. I had worked a little too quickly on the rear wheel and ended up with a couple of minor hops. Then built the front wheel and spent more time on the roundness while bringing it up to tension and it came out nice. After building the front wheel, the rear wheel weighed on me enough that I had to put it back on the stand to work out most of the hop.
Trust me, I'm not a wheel builder.
The front with no dish is easy peasy.

Now where is the master... Vreeland?
 

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
Once your past the basket weaving part, is when it gets frustrating.

Side to side runout is easy. A hop (or 2) is very difficult to adjust all while keeping spoke tension equal.

It takes time and pa·tience....

Once you understand a little, read the posts on wheelfanatyk. He brings a lifetime of observations building wheels that you'll really only understand after building a handful of wheels.
 
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