qclabrat
Well-Known Member
besides the wizard and gazza they don't look like plus
I've got down hill tires at 2.5, but they seem more like high volume
What have you done to your bike today?
- Thread starter Chris(NJ)
- Start date
I've got down hill tires at 2.5, but they seem more like high volume
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
no that's a good list.
thoughts on what's better for the rear, Mt vs trail king?
alex_k
Well-Known Member
do you want to change the wheelset too? because running huge tires on narrow rims is a receipt for disaster
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
I prefer lower-profile stuff on the back, but to each his own. I'm a cheap ass with most bike stuff, so I buy whatever I can find for cheap/on sale... I'm not racing, anyway.
X2 on the rim width, though. Narrowish rims tend to fold tires at lower pressure... My 26er has 30mm inner width rims (Araya cruiser rims, natch--see cheap ass). You can't get away with retro-fab on a bike like that, but you can get a nice wide rim like a velocity dually or a rabbit hole, which will spread pretty much anything out real wide. The dually will probably give you more wiggle room with tire choice, since you're already kind of tight in the rear.
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qclabrat
Well-Known Member
hmm good point, gotta read up on limits
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
okay, adhd bike rotation
moving on to the Bruce Gordon I'm keeping but needs a major upgrade. I don't think I can get a better modern touring frame anyways. The bike is about 20 yrs old and has less than 1K miles on it and is the only bike I have religiously cleaned after each ride. Drive train is Campy Chorus 7 spd with Bullseye wheels. I'd love to keep the bike original, but to be blunt, old bikes ride like shit compared to new bikes.
I've developed back and neck problems so I'll keep the goofy trekking for now. From the parts bin I'll be using the following: X9 drive and ultegra triple cranks
current brakes are dia compe 986s, I have two sets of CX canti brakes. Would ReVox or SLKs work better than the dia compe?
what I am really stuck on are the wheels. The bulleyes hubs laced to wide mavic hoops are bombproof and were spec'd out to handle full loaded touring. Suggestions on modern durable wheels which won't break the bank? I'll even consider just building a new rear now and eventually a dyno front later. At the moment I'm considering White Industries hubs with Ryde Andra rims. They are 30mm rims which will mate well with the larger 42mm tires I'm planning to use.
moving on to the Bruce Gordon I'm keeping but needs a major upgrade. I don't think I can get a better modern touring frame anyways. The bike is about 20 yrs old and has less than 1K miles on it and is the only bike I have religiously cleaned after each ride. Drive train is Campy Chorus 7 spd with Bullseye wheels. I'd love to keep the bike original, but to be blunt, old bikes ride like shit compared to new bikes.
I've developed back and neck problems so I'll keep the goofy trekking for now. From the parts bin I'll be using the following: X9 drive and ultegra triple cranks
current brakes are dia compe 986s, I have two sets of CX canti brakes. Would ReVox or SLKs work better than the dia compe?
what I am really stuck on are the wheels. The bulleyes hubs laced to wide mavic hoops are bombproof and were spec'd out to handle full loaded touring. Suggestions on modern durable wheels which won't break the bank? I'll even consider just building a new rear now and eventually a dyno front later. At the moment I'm considering White Industries hubs with Ryde Andra rims. They are 30mm rims which will mate well with the larger 42mm tires I'm planning to use.
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
IMO, hub choice depends on what kind of touring(?) you are going to do with the bike. If it's anywhere outside of the US, stick with Shimano, as you can get replacement parts practically anywhere. As far as generator hubs, Schmidt is the gold standard, but Shutter Precision work very well, too (and the higher-end Shimano hubs are no slouches, either)...front hubs are under much less stress, so you have wiggle room there. Spokes could be anything from DT Comp/Sapim Race, to more exotic combos--Sapim Strong RH, Sapim Force LH (rear wheel, of course), or from the DT catalog, Alpine III RH, Comps LH. The different spoke diameters help keep the tensions closer to equal with modern, high-dish hubs.
I was going to suggest you take a look at DT TK 540s for the rims, and live with the slightly narrower width in exchange for being able to use tubeless tires...but it looks like they stopped producing it in 26" form...unless it's a 700 touring bike, in which case, don't even think, just get the DTs. With Schwalbe making their Marathons available in tubeless forms, it's a no-brainer, now. I would personally avoid the Ryde rims, anyhow; they look good on paper, but if the profile is accurate, those look like two huge stress-risers formed right into the brake track. Maybe they did it under the auspices of a rim-wear indicator, but something about it rubs me the wrong way. I'm not an engineer, and can't quantify my feelings, but I'd pass.
Again, my opinion, but for touring, there is no reason not to use wide-profile cantilevers unless your heels hit the brakes...and I would hope they don't on a bike that was made for you.
I was going to suggest you take a look at DT TK 540s for the rims, and live with the slightly narrower width in exchange for being able to use tubeless tires...but it looks like they stopped producing it in 26" form...unless it's a 700 touring bike, in which case, don't even think, just get the DTs. With Schwalbe making their Marathons available in tubeless forms, it's a no-brainer, now. I would personally avoid the Ryde rims, anyhow; they look good on paper, but if the profile is accurate, those look like two huge stress-risers formed right into the brake track. Maybe they did it under the auspices of a rim-wear indicator, but something about it rubs me the wrong way. I'm not an engineer, and can't quantify my feelings, but I'd pass.
Again, my opinion, but for touring, there is no reason not to use wide-profile cantilevers unless your heels hit the brakes...and I would hope they don't on a bike that was made for you.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
this bike is the 700c RnR not the 26" which I also had but sold years ago, it was the Chinese version Bob tried out unsuccessfully. I didn't consider tubeless till you brought it up. Who's making stout rims for tubeless nowadays? I have a set of tubulars with XTR hubs I was using for a set of back up CX wheels which I can relace to with tubeless hoops.
Juggernaut
Master of the Metaphor
Walt,
I have these (Polished) and have been really pleased with them.
http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/cliff-hanger-622
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
Agree. Cliffhangers are nice rims (if a bit heavy for daily use, but great for touring), and Velocity even offers it with non-machined sidewalls for maximum retrogrouch-ness.
Velocity (and that one rim from DT) are pretty much your only choices now for sane spoke-count rims that are also tubeless compatible and have a brake track. I bought my WTB ChrisCross when they were pretty much the only tubeless rim brake rim being made, but it's way too light duty to do loaded touring on--I probably wouldn't carry more than 20-ish pounds. HED has begun being stingy with selling just their rims, and they seem to have been bit by the 'low spoke count' bug, so...
Got my custom color decals for the new Crest's.
Peeled off old, applied new....
#matchymatchy
Peeled off old, applied new....
#matchymatchy
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
see a set of TK540s laced to a XT rear and Alfine dyno front with Alpine spokes. All for $200. Could be a quick solution
Juggernaut
Master of the Metaphor
This bikes has more lives than a schizophrenic cat!
That's a compliment BTW. Never can tell in this place these days.
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
I would jump on it. You could build a slightly nicer wheelset, but it would cost a lot more than $200.
Chris Nordt
Active Member
Awesome upgrade.. long live rim brakes!!
ilnadi
Well-Known Member
you don't know the half of it
, about 12 years ago I backed into a park gate (i.e. 6x6) with the bike on back of an SUV. several dents and bent the left chainstay/seatstay. By all knowledge in the universe that killed the bike. Being the engineer I am, I stripped the bike down, constructed a jig of 2x4s, carpet, etc and stood on it for an hour until it creeped mostly in place. I'd been riding it for 12 years since, dents and all. Now it has become a point of stubbornness...
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
done, delivery next week
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
for most having an aluminum SS seems counterintuitive. Though anyone who has ridden a Klein knows otherwise. I have a Rascal with the funny dropouts which makes a great singlespeed, unfortunately I have way too many 26rs and that one will be gone soon.you don't know the half of it