the NOT SO official 27.5+ thread.

27+??

  • On my radar!!

  • No clue?

  • NOT ANOTHER WHEEEEEEEL SIZE!!!

  • 26 forever! This is just aploy to sell more bikes!

  • Full fatty only

  • I quit riding and just troll

  • 29 4-eva

  • 27.5 regular /non-plus


Results are only viewable after voting.

chrisalecia

Active Member
But 27.5 x 3 is the happy medium. Between the 2.2 and a Fat Bike. So your only maybe Quarter Fat, definitely not Mid Fat.

Not comparing to a fatbike setup - I'm thinking happy medium in my range which is between what I currently run (29 x 2.25) and 27.5 x 2.8. That being a 29 x 2.5. What I'm getting at is do I really need to buy another wheelset (27.5) or just get a larger tire (2.5) for my 29" wheelset. Or would I expect a noticable difference with a 27.5 x 2.8 setup?
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
I'm not getting a response from the guy who was to build me a DWlink Ti frame, so back to the drawing board.
Any thoughts on this Lynskey? Ever since they started pedaling on eBay, their bike values have dropped quite a bit. Are they even made in US any longer? This one is using a Horst design and a 148 rear
Ridgeline-FS-140-FNI-DCB_no140__66311.1476820846.500.659.jpg
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
from an engineering POV, it makes me nuts when i see the forces not aligned with the shock, then get worse through the range.....the shock even looks bent in that pic.
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
from an engineering POV, it makes me nuts when i see the forces not aligned with the shock, then get worse through the range.....the shock even looks bent in that pic.
I noticed that as well, seems like it would cause atypical wear to the shock
could that be allowing more travel?
 

Juggernaut

Master of the Metaphor
from an engineering POV, it makes me nuts when i see the forces not aligned with the shock, then get worse through the range.....the shock even looks bent in that pic.

I just can't my see how this isn't a bad design. Don't bother with the math... calculus (much like some regrettable 2 am hookups from my college years) has long since faded from memory.;)
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
I noticed that as well, seems like it would cause atypical wear to the shock
could that be allowing more travel?

flip shock every 10 hours?

just seems like one side will fail - quick look, and it seems the tall boy travel moves through the centerline of the shock.
the link is set to pull towards the top tube, rather than away from it.

since i don't know anything about bike engineering, i'm just being a physics weenie.

I just can't my see how this isn't a bad design. Don't bother with the math... calculus (much like some regrettable 2 am hookups from my college years) has long since faded from memory.;)

it was only a problem at 6am.
 

stb222

Love Drunk
Jerk Squad
flip shock every 10 hours?

just seems like one side will fail - quick look, and it seems the tall boy travel moves through the centerline of the shock.
the link is set to pull towards the top tube, rather than away from it.

since i don't know anything about bike engineering, i'm just being a physics weenie.



it was only a problem at 6am.
from an engineering POV, it makes me nuts when i see the forces not aligned with the shock, then get worse through the range.....the shock even looks bent in that pic.
Interesting point, look at the Titus Horst, inline and up to your standards.
551340d1277147458-full-suspension-ww-recommendations-horst-link-4-bar.jpg

Specialized too
horstLink.png
 

Ian F

Well-Known Member
The Lynskey appears to use the #3 linkage to control the progression ratio against the shock. Different than the Titus and Specialized designs which use the #3 link as more of a brace. Neither are wrong. The former generally allows more travel out of a given shock stroke. The latter are generally lighter and possibly a bit stiffer.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
i like the titus design - the upward/forward movement seems to be in-sync through #3.
does it seem like the specialized would have a large change in bottom bracket-hub distance through the range of motion?

i need to poke around and see if there are animated depictions of the movement.
 

rick81721

Lothar
Looks like no mtb for awhile with all this rain. I was thinking about improvements on the horsethief. Currently have WTB Scraper alum rims and 3" Nobby nic tires. Would a move to carbon rims and 2.8" tires make a significant/noticeable difference?
 

RSAmerica

Well-Known Member
Looks like no mtb for awhile with all this rain. I was thinking about improvements on the horsethief. Currently have WTB Scraper alum rims and 3" Nobby nic tires. Would a move to carbon rims and 2.8" tires make a significant/noticeable difference?

The 3.0 Nobby Nic is a real dog of a tire, very slow with no performance gain over the 2.8. The 2.8 NN is what I run this time of the year. When the warmer dryer weather comes I run the 2.8 Maxxis Rekon+ 2.8 much faster with stiffer sidewalls.

As for carbon wheel, carbon wheels really wait up a plus bike.
 

rick81721

Lothar
The 3.0 Nobby Nic is a real dog of a tire, very slow with no performance gain over the 2.8. The 2.8 NN is what I run this time of the year. When the warmer dryer weather comes I run the 2.8 Maxxis Rekon+ 2.8 much faster with stiffer sidewalls.

As for carbon wheel, carbon wheels really wait up a plus bike.

Thanks. Those Reynolds rims you have would look great on my bike - I assume a bike shop can buy just those rims?
 

MadisonDan

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
My XtC came with Nobby Nic 3.0 front and Rocket Ron 2.8 rear. Both are the non-EVO, non-Snakeskin versions. OEM type stuff. Don't see them on the Schwalbe site.

Got Rocket Ron EVO Shakeskin TL Easy, Pacestar in 3.0/2.8 on order to replace both front and rear. Should drop a bit of weight just switching to these. May give a little in traction vs the NN's, but I'm not that concerned about that. I mean, it is 3.0". Besides, I don't ride crazy tech or sketchy stuff.
 

rick81721

Lothar

mattybfat

The Opinion Police
Team MTBNJ Halter's
I personally wouldn't do carbon with low pressure tires like plus and fat. My experience with carbon fat is they will never hold up to Rocks in this area.

Grab some wtb scrapers or stand Hugo's or any light weight aluminum rims.
 
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