The DIY thread - DIYourself

No holes drilled in back ledge. So, its just one big rectangular cut-out. While I was under there I noticed the embossed K-5982 and the measurements 38 x 22. Its a discontinued sink model. No surprise there. It is a rock solid, cast-iron sink.

I'll keep searching for a similar sized hole compatible, blah, blah, blah, stainless-steel sink.

But, in the meantime...

I think I'm going to try the "porcelain enamel polish" idea. Any product recommendations? Internet is loaded with shit from $5 to $100 and I've even read recommendations of using a pumice stone. Basically, I have little scratches all over it from pots and pans and such and 1 small rust mark on the bottom from a stupid dish strainer that left a mark.
 
huffster said:
I think I'm going to try the "porcelain enamel polish" idea. Any product recommendations? Internet is loaded with shit from $5 to $100 and I've even read recommendations of using a pumice stone. Basically, I have little scratches all over it from pots and pans and such and 1 small rust mark on the bottom from a stupid dish strainer that left a mark.
Click to expand...

The porcelain enamel CI sink that we removed had this problem. Cleaning it with a Mr Clean eraser seemed to work best, but it didn't take long for the scratches to stain up again. Hopefully the polish works!
 
fidodie said:
i just did one that was the opposite - the drain was so low, the trap would have to penetrate the bottom of of the cabinet. It was copper piping too. I put in a pvc riser and AAV. All outside the wall, nice and neat.
Click to expand...

Why did you need an AAV? Was it unvented from the start?
 
rlb said:
Why did you need an AAV? Was it unvented from the start?
Click to expand...

created an S trap - this is a no-no as seen in the before pic. afterwards the tail pipe extension is gone, the trap is higher leaving more room.
the "correct" way would have been to move the stub up, but that requires a plumbing license. There is probably a trick where you use
2" pipe, but it would also have to be all the way back into the wall again. wish i had an after pic, it came out nice and neat. as an aside, this was probably
code compliant when first installed.

IMG_5235.JPG
 
gZHMMlh.gif
 
New grill for Mothers' Day. Cause that is how she rolls.
Spread the parts, put the @W1f3 on the instructions, and spotting, the @kid and me on assembly.
Less than 1.5 hours from uncrating to overed. My kid likes to swear at most mechanical endeavors. this was no exception.

IMG_6491.JPG
IMG_6492.JPG
(lawn not cut on diagonal in this section, but deck boards are!)
 
fidodie said:
New grill for Mothers' Day. Cause that is how she rolls.
Spread the parts, put the @W1f3 on the instructions, and spotting, the @kid and me on assembly.
Less than 1.5 hours from uncrating to overed. My kid likes to swear at most mechanical endeavors. this was no exception.

View attachment 51548
View attachment 51547
(lawn not cut on diagonal in this section, but deck boards are!)
Click to expand...
Hey pat that looks like a nice place to relax with a beer or something , good work !
 
Looking for some creative suggestions for mounting a light fixture. My house is post a beam construction so adding fixtures is extra fun. I've got the wire run, so the hard part is done.

Here is the base of the light:
IMG_20170430_130921739_HDR.jpg

I've got 4 inches between the beams to work with:
IMG_20170430_130728409_HDR.jpg

Other lights on my house are mounted with an extra piece of wood to hide what's behind them. I was hoping to avoid this:IMG_20170430_220641811_HDR.jpg

The new light is about 15' high, so it doesn't have to be perfect. Could I find a ceiling box that's low profile enough to stick behind that base so it can't be seen and it will support the light? Being able to install it from the bottom (rather than the typical side nailing boxes) would be a bonus. Any thoughts?
 
ChrisRU said:
Being able to install it from the bottom (rather than the typical side nailing boxes) would be a bonus. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Take a look at this, I've used this style of switch box in the wall a bunch They're great for replacing an existing box since you don't have to rely on those stupid ears against the drywall. Should work well if it'll fit between the beams. The switch box may be OK here if you're using a wood panel to support the fixture weight.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Madison-Electric-Products-Smart-Box-Adjustable-Depth-50-lb-Ceiling-Box-Support-MSBRND/203343429?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-VF-PLA-D27E-Electrical|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlp6XhdHO0wIVT8ayCh3soAQbEAQYAiABEgKX-_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
@rlb, that looks like it could work, thanks for the suggestion. I may give this a shot an add a piece of trim vertically between the beams to that will hide everything. The fixture is maybe like 15 pounds so if I can get a box mounted solidly I'm leaning toward not adding extra support.
 
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Okay, taking up carpet to expose wood floors, found this from an abandoned forced hot air system. It's about 12"x16".
IMG_6655.JPG IMG_6656.JPG IMG_6657.JPG

So a couple of smaller channels with insulation loosely stuffed in there, and also a nasty old filter I haven't removed.
This was covered by a 3/4" plywood patch, and the hole will be patched when the floors are done.

There are a couple of smaller returns in the room, I expect to find the same plywood, some insulation).

The question is, should I pack in more insulation and seal it up before the floors cover it over?
 
oh, also.
Kitchen window:
i-MN7BphC-X2.jpg


I have the new window tacked in there for now.
neighbor dude says I shouldn't bother with all the window pan and tape/sealant stuff. I tend to agree, the old window didn't have it and there was zero rot since 1959. It's under a large even and behind brick.
 
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