The DIY thread - DIYourself

[rlb]

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a curtain or other type of covering for a window inside a shower? I'm looking to prevent the water from hitting it because it just turns into a collection of soap scum and other shower funk. I know there are curtains that secure on the top and bottom (such as those you would put on a door) but I don't know what that type of setup it called. A top hanging curtain wont work because I don't want to be brushing against it while showering. Open to any suggestions aside from removing the window, don't have time for that at the moment.

 

[Patrick]

Hit it with rain-X ? Maybe the whole area? should shed the water better.
i've used the privacy film with success. then no curtain needed.

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a curtain or other type of covering for a window inside a shower? I'm looking to prevent the water from hitting it because it just turns into a collection of soap scum and other shower funk. I know there are curtains that secure on the top and bottom (such as those you would put on a door) but I don't know what that type of setup it called. A top hanging curtain wont work because I don't want to be brushing against it while showering. Open to any suggestions aside from removing the window, don't have time for that at the moment.

 

[w_b]

treat the root cause or you will eventually have scummy buildup on whatever you place in front of the window.

when you step in the shower, spend 30seconds and wipedown the area. shower. repeat the next day. done. 0$$$

 

[qclabrat]

my in-laws wanted to reconfigure their bathtub against the wall with a window, told them it was a bad idea, this why
glad it will be a nightmare to plumb, so most likely no go

 

[rlb]

The problem is water that sits there. It's just a regular double hung window, so there's plenty of places for water to get to. Cleaning it isn't an issue (though it could happen more often), but preventing the water from getting in there would make a big difference.

 

[rlb]

The case against 24"OC studs

https://www.instagram.com/p/BP-uADxFqeh/

 

[Karate Monkey]

Been rehabilitating old cast iron the last couple of weeks:

Before electrolysis:

After:

After initial seasoning:

(sharp eyed viewers will notice that the electrolysis also, apparently, enlarged the pan to a #7)

 

[gtluke]

Floors are in. There will be cabinets on top of that part to the right that looks stupid right now.

 

[rlb]

Floors are in. There will be cabinets on top of that part to the right that looks stupid right now.

Nice, will you have to sand a lot to meet the existing floor?

 

[gtluke]

Nice, will you have to sand a lot to meet the existing floor?

not too much, my floors have only been sanded once since new and it was a light sanding. It's what I did a few years ago when we moved in.

 

[mattybfat]

My favorite thing to do lacing in a new to old hardwood floor

 

[ktmrider]

Floors are in. There will be cabinets on top of that part to the right that looks stupid right now.

Hey do you need a floor sander I have a commercial orbital unit that has four 6 inch disks for sanding hardwood floors it's the type you can't fuck up the floor , I can drop it off with the cabinet load . Lmk

 

[gtluke]

What undercab lighting system should I be using? And do I bring the wires into the cabinet or into the 1" void under the cabinet behind the face frame?
@woody stopped by today and we used about a gallon of wood glue and got about half the cabinets assembled. Need to figure out where the hell to pop the wires though so I can get these things on the wall.

 

[ktmrider]

1 inch void

 

[Patrick]

What undercab lighting system should I be using? And do I bring the wires into the cabinet or into the 1" void under the cabinet behind the face frame?
@woody stopped by today and we used about a gallon of wood glue and got about half the cabinets assembled. Need to figure out where the hell to pop the wires though so I can get these things on the wall.

Transformers can go in the cabinets or other accessible space, line voltage goes through the cabinet box, directly into the transformer via the void. Line voltage can not be exposed (ie under the cabinet) - low voltage lines go where ever you can put them - between cabinets, inside face frames - over the top. use the right lv wire - i can't remember, cl3? or class 2 ??

Here are two transformers - he line voltage comes through the back, the lv goes between cabinet boxes, and along the bottom
this is the kitchler lighting system with diffuser under cabinet, and raw led strip on the back of the face frame. the wire you see is lv.



under cabinet strip turned on - the lv wire you see there bridges the inside cabinet led strips from one side of the cabinet to the other.

i know you like the legrange power strip and glass tile! all DIY!

in cabinet lighting, I can't remember which glass style this is?



gotta stick that back down


the junction box transitions from lv wire to the led end plug

 

[gtluke]

Sweet, thanks @ktmrider and @fidodie
looks I followed some sort of instructions when I roughed in the wires as they are at 55" off the finished floor, and the cabinets go in at 54" so it should slide right in.
Now I need to figure out WTF I'm buying so I do it right.

 

[Patrick]

Sweet, thanks @ktmrider and @fidodie
looks I followed some sort of instructions when I roughed in the wires as they are at 55" off the finished floor, and the cabinets go in at 54" so it should slide right in.
Now I need to figure out WTF I'm buying so I do it right.

compatible switches/dimmers and transformers are key to success if using led. some of the dimmers have a minimum load, so take that into account.
mine will strobe occasionally with the switch off - i think there is a ground loop somewhere - so true zero is a problem.

 

[gtluke]

Looks like I came close to screwing myself with how I ran the romex for the lights. SUPER conflicting information on how to use romex for low voltage.
And because of the shaker cabinets you can't run a continuous strip across multiple cabinets, there's just no opening between the bottoms unless you cut it out?
Starting in the corner (cause that's by the light switch) and going CCW because that's how I wired it.

Section 1, pie cut corner
12" pie1
12" pie2
12"
gap because of stove
15"
gap because of doorway
24"
gap because of dining room
12"
12"
33"
12"

I'm looking at the kichler hardstrip series.
http://www.kichler.com/products/product/24v-stand-dry-3000k-led-hard-strip-12-al-6hs30k12a.aspx
Do I want 2700 or 3k? Or 5k? ugh
Only available in 6" or 12" sections
So I'd go with
6"
6"
6"
gap using romex
12"
gap using romex
12" + 6"?
gap using romex
6"
6"
12" + 6" + 12"
6"

That comes to 8ft of continuous length, max is 10ft so I'm good. I'm way under on the wattage.
I think using the crawlspace to reroute some romex I can actually chop it up into 2 sections fairly easy so I have two 4ft sections instead of one 8ft section.
Or I could just use all line voltage stuff, but that's more money. They do offer more sizes though.
I guess I could use the tape stuff too? does that come out nice? After 10 years? Little skeptical about the tape shit lasting.

This is annoying that home depot doesn't sell it, as my MO is to just buy 5 times as much shit as I need, install what I want, and then return 75% of it. Now I actually have to think about what I'm buying.

 

[Patrick]

i did 2700

what is meant by can't run continuous? did you purchase the molding for the bottom of the cabinets to hide the lights?
or are you talking about bridging the range and sink gaps?

lv wire is more like in-wall speaker wire, than line level. fits in a 3/8" hole. can be fished between cabinets, and behind face frames
Also can go over the top of the cabinets as needed, assuming you don't have open soffits. if you do, the wire will need to be protected with a conduit
(i think)

i don't have the modern kitchler tape, i have an older version with pin connectors, rather than clamp. seems sticky enough. i did run it in a solid channel with diffuser under cabinet.
without the diffuser, the led throws a weird multiple-shadow of everything that i didn't like.

get creative with the wire.

The cabinets step down here - feed comes from above, and between the refrigerator panel and cabinet - then inside the next cabinet, to make the transition




i don't remember why i have a splice here..it should be continuous - must have been a get-it-done moment.



i think i have a half roll of 12-2 around.

 

[Patrick]

i get the gap thing now.

you can also run in two different directions, put the transformer in the middle - or any star pattern - which allows the wire to be fished through the ceiling -
all the leds are in parallel, even tho it looks serial.