The DIY thread - DIYourself

rlb

Well-Known Member
You really need to chase the threads with a tap if they've been exposed for years, then they'll go in nice and clean. Check harbor freight for a cheap one if you don't foresee using it again.
 

ChrisRU

Well-Known Member
That's rough. @fidodie has some good suggestions. @hotsauce, hitches for many new cars are generally pretty easy. I've installed 5 or 6 at this point. I only had one that really fought me. It required some grinding of the hitch and elongation of the mounting holes on it to make it fit because the car had a minor collision/tweak to the rear end that threw the mounting points off a 1/4" or so.

If there is any indirect access to the holes from anywhere, you can drill out the holes and fish in carriage bolts. A couple of hitches I've done went on this way, so I'm sure you can buy the hardware.
hitch-installation-3.jpg
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
That's rough. @fidodie has some good suggestions. @hotsauce, hitches for many new cars are generally pretty easy. I've installed 5 or 6 at this point. I only had one that really fought me. It required some grinding of the hitch and elongation of the mounting holes on it to make it fit because the car had a minor collision/tweak to the rear end that threw the mounting points off a 1/4" or so.

If there is any indirect access to the holes from anywhere, you can drill out the holes and fish in carriage bolts. A couple of hitches I've done went on this way, so I'm sure you can buy the hardware.
hitch-installation-3.jpg
that underside looks really clean, I'll send a shot of my bumper in a bit when I go to HD and HF, I'm not sure how long it will even hold up, thanks for the tip
 
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qclabrat

Well-Known Member
WP_20170221_16_41_23_Pro.jpg WP_20170221_16_41_47_Pro.jpg not the best picture but the bumper looks like plywood of rust
I found a cheap tap set from HF to chase the threads and got some lock washers from HD, ran out of light so will wfh tomorrow to get it done

parts of bumper just cleaving off as I installed the hitch
 

Paul H

Fearless OOS Poser
When I did mine, I had to drop the exhaust a bit. But then again, my car is a sedan and lacked room to work with but otherwise pretty straight forward.... I did have to dremel couple of the holes to make thing fit... then there was wait time for the rust inhibitor to dry.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Not sure how the Pilot is built, when I took my receiver off the equinox the carriage bolt securing the receiver to the bottom of the frame rail started spinning as soon as I took the breaker bar to it. Luckily for me, turns out the rails are open at the back and the only thing that prevented access to the bolt from the top is the crash bar bolted behind the bumper cover. If you had access to the drawings for your car you could verify if that is true and replace the broken off welded nut with a regular one and a big washer. Only downside is you would have to remove bumper cover and bumper, and then do it again if you plan to remove it.

This is for a 2008. What I mean is if part n.27 and part n.15/19 were removable you could access the bolt from the top.
S9VAB4915A.jpg
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
Not sure how the Pilot is built, when I took my receiver off the equinox the carriage bolt securing the receiver to the bottom of the frame rail started spinning as soon as I took the breaker bar to it. Luckily for me, turns out the rails are open at the back and the only thing that prevented access to the bolt from the top is the crash bar bolted behind the bumper cover. If you had access to the drawings for your car you could verify if that is true and replace the broken off welded nut with a regular one and a big washer. Only downside is you would have to remove bumper cover and bumper, and then do it again if you plan to remove it.

This is for a 2008. What I mean is if part n.27 and part n.15/19 were removable you could access the bolt from the top.
S9VAB4915A.jpg
worth a shot, heading out now to give it a go, I'll check for access under the utility well
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
after $50 of parts/tools, 3 trips to HD and 2 to HF
and I only spent 50 on the rack from CL
WP_20170222_16_49_23_Pro.jpg

left side where the tow hook was removed went in smooth, added locking washers, thanks @fidodie
WP_20170222_16_51_05_Pro.jpg

other side needed chasing with tap and some blaster, just leaving it with two bolts and the third dangling, thanks @rlb
WP_20170222_16_49_36_Pro.jpg

center set had to handle with kid gloves, careful not to over tighten through the rust rot
WP_20170222_16_49_57_Pro.jpg

fits a 26r just fine
WP_20170222_17_24_21_Pro.jpg

will need a longer ratchet strap and a mod to a tray for the fat bike
WP_20170222_17_42_49_Pro.jpg

not good fit for the xtracycle, this mod will take some thinking
WP_20170222_17_45_04_Pro.jpg
 

MadisonDan

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
I think I killed my compound miter saw last night......
**Disclaimer**
-It's a 10-15yr old Ryobi.
-I wasn't using it correctly.

Reworking the split rail fence on the side of the yard. Moving the fence line forward, adding double gates, etc. None of the rails are standard length, so I had to cut to size.
IMG_7051.JPG

Of course the correct tool for this job is something that I don't own, whatever it may be. So holding the rail between my feet, at all sorts of strange angles I cut. I can hear it straining, so I hold steady for a second, then proceed again. On the last cut of rail 4 of 9, as I release the trigger, the saw continues to run. Fuk. The only way to get it to stop was to unplug it.

My assumption is that I killed it. Even if there were a repair, said repair would most likely cost almost as much as a new, similar, low end, crappy, new one.

Thoughts?
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
I think I killed my compound miter saw last night......
**Disclaimer**
-It's a 10-15yr old Ryobi.
-I wasn't using it correctly.

Reworking the split rail fence on the side of the yard. Moving the fence line forward, adding double gates, etc. None of the rails are standard length, so I had to cut to size.
View attachment 48145

Of course the correct tool for this job is something that I don't own, whatever it may be. So holding the rail between my feet, at all sorts of strange angles I cut. I can hear it straining, so I hold steady for a second, then proceed again. On the last cut of rail 4 of 9, as I release the trigger, the saw continues to run. Fuk. The only way to get it to stop was to unplug it.

My assumption is that I killed it. Even if there were a repair, said repair would most likely cost almost as much as a new, similar, low end, crappy, new one.

Thoughts?

can't be more than a fused switch. parts are available online. you got this - DIY on DIY action.

so you were cutting the ends to fit in the posts? probably a band saw or radial arm saw set up to rip. i can give you my radial arm saw - i'm trying to unload it :D
 

huffster

Well-Known Member
I agree that sounds like the switch is bad. I don't know how comfortable you are with a multi-meter, but if you open up the saw (unplugged of course), you should be able to test the switch opening and closing. If its a switch, it should be a lot cheaper than a new saw. Of course, if you are trying to convince yourself you need a NEW toy...that's your prerogative.
 

ktmrider

Well-Known Member
I think I killed my compound miter saw last night......
**Disclaimer**
-It's a 10-15yr old Ryobi.
-I wasn't using it correctly.

Reworking the split rail fence on the side of the yard. Moving the fence line forward, adding double gates, etc. None of the rails are standard length, so I had to cut to size.
View attachment 48145

Of course the correct tool for this job is something that I don't own, whatever it may be. So holding the rail between my feet, at all sorts of strange angles I cut. I can hear it straining, so I hold steady for a second, then proceed again. On the last cut of rail 4 of 9, as I release the trigger, the saw continues to run. Fuk. The only way to get it to stop was to unplug it.

My assumption is that I killed it. Even if there were a repair, said repair would most likely cost almost as much as a new, similar, low end, crappy, new one.

Thoughts?
Hey Dan we are looking at installing the same style fence at the parking lots at the Nassau trail system , when will you have time in your schedule to take care of that for us :)
 

MadisonDan

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
can't be more than a fused switch. parts are available online. you got this - DIY on DIY action.

so you were cutting the ends to fit in the posts? probably a band saw or radial arm saw set up to rip. i can give you my radial arm saw - i'm trying to unload it :D

Will take apart this weekend, if I have time. Yeah, cutting down to correct length. Thanks for the offer on the radial arm saw. Maybe. Talk at ST on Sunday.

I agree that sounds like the switch is bad. I don't know how comfortable you are with a multi-meter, but if you open up the saw (unplugged of course), you should be able to test the switch opening and closing. If its a switch, it should be a lot cheaper than a new saw. Of course, if you are trying to convince yourself you need a NEW toy...that's your prerogative.

Multi-meter? Is that like more than one meter?
Newer is betterererer.

Hey Dan we are looking at installing the same style fence at the parking lots at the Nassau trail system , when will you have time in your schedule to take care of that for us :)

Believe it or not, never been there. Yet. If I had the time, I'd be happy to help. Mrs MadisonDan will prolly tell me I don't have the time though..
 
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