serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Dumb question but did you leave any ventilation between the insulation and the roof in between the rafters?
The DIY thread - DIYourself
- Thread starter rlb
- Start date
Mr.Moto
Well-Known Member
I'm too distracted. What's going on here?
02camaro
Well-Known Member
it looks like a french door from the outside but is a regular garage door. it was a score off craiglist on the cheap, looks great
yes i left it the way you see it. trying to maintain the max height available when raising large trucks, the antennas and if i lift the vehicle with the hood open the go up into the rafter area.
i think @serviceguy wanted to know if you put the rafter vent baffles in above the insulation. allows air to flow above the insulation from the eve to the ridge vent, so condensation doesn't form between layers.
02camaro
Well-Known Member
oh, didnt know i was supposed to, but i didnt. i was also supposed to used r21+ for the ceilings but used r13 because of a deal i got.
it probably doesn't touch the underside of the roof then, but given the amount of air traveling over the insulation, the "deal" may be consumed by the heater....
you'll be able to tell by the snow melting on the roof when the heat is on.
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
This, sorry I didn't make myself clear earlier.
02camaro
Well-Known Member
insulation is pressed up against the roof, its already made a huge difference. got it up to 60 tonight in an hour, that never has happened without it. with the heater off it drops about 2 degrees an hour. i plan on doing the walls too, but money, next paycheck. not really concerned with moisture, its a garage after all and the concrete slab its on is the biggest heat sink in the world, should have done a heater floor but again money.
problem is the condensation will drip into the insulation - eventually destroying it and creating a mold factory.
consider putting the baffles in - it would be a pain, need to undo one side of the insulation, put them in top to bottom, so the seams would direct any water down into the eves.
there shouldn't be any, but better it go there than the insualation.
the new concrete is a great source of moisture also..
is that a 5000w heater?
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Moisture may not concern you but mold definitely should.
02camaro
Well-Known Member
damn that does sound like a pain, would be like doing the job over again
its a 6250/7500w heater with thermostat.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
can you just do it at the peak?
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
Can handy folks comment on this waterjet cutter? We are getting one at the high school for the robotics club and I'm writing a marketing plan for class for this local kickstarter product.
https://www.wazer.com/
https://www.wazer.com/
needs to let air flow from the eve vents to the ridge vent - this also keeps the roof cold, and the snow provides additional insulation, rather than melting off.
the other trick would be to fill in all the collar ties, insulate across, and create light weight storage (very light weight.)
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
It doesn't look like he's got neither in the garage. I have the same setup, no soffit (hence no vents) and no ridge ventilation. I want to insulate the garage but I'm afraid to do the roof without adding ventilation somehow (just leaving a gap between the insulation and the underside of the roof wouldn't cut it). That would be project 10001...
A Potted Plant
Honorary Sod
Do you have any non painted metal surfaces, I am trying to get my garage insulated this year so I can move my woodworking tools to the garage but I don't want to deal with flash rusting. Do you see that as a problem?
A Potted Plant
Honorary Sod
Nope he needs to do ridge to peak it's the reason we don't use our second floor. When they insulated our house they didn't put hips in and we have a mold problem. We're going to rip out our roof and reframe for more head space rather than remediation since the mold would come back.