The DIY thread - DIYourself

qclabrat said:
Not really diy but instead of a new thread. My Honda Pilot won't go into Drive when below 40F until the car is driven for 5-10 mins. The colder, it takes longer. I can use D3 till after that time. But my question is whether it's okay to drive on the highway at D3 @4000 room for 5-10 mins. I sometimes drive local so D3 is fine for the 40 min drive, but it's screaming to shift on 78
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You getting a check engine?
Most cars will put you in "limp mode" which won't allow you to drive it normally so you don't damage anything but will get you home etc.
 
Mathers said:
You getting a check engine?
Most cars will put you in "limp mode" which won't allow you to drive it normally so you don't damage anything but will get you home etc.
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im guessing not limp mode, IME limp mode limits you to first or second gear and like 2500 RPM (may vary from car to car)
 
jmanic said:
Paging HVAC members of the hive-
I’m looking to seal off AC (cooling only) vents for the heating season.
The air unit is located in an unheated but insulated attic.

Thinking garbage bags filled with loose batting stuffed into the vents, and doing something to seal off the diffusers (maybe sheet magnet material).
And I’ll trip the breaker so I remember to undo it when it gets warm again.

Any other suggestions on sealing the diffusers?
And is trapping moisture in the vents a concern?
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They sell magnetic sheets at home depot for covering the vents.
 
qclabrat said:
Not really diy but instead of a new thread. My Honda Pilot won't go into Drive when below 40F until the car is driven for 5-10 mins. The colder, it takes longer. I can use D3 till after that time. But my question is whether it's okay to drive on the highway at D3 @4000 room for 5-10 mins. I sometimes drive local so D3 is fine for the 40 min drive, but it's screaming to shift on 78
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it wont let you physically go into D or it wont move in D?
 
Mathers said:
You getting a check engine?
Most cars will put you in "limp mode" which won't allow you to drive it normally so you don't damage anything but will get you home etc.
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No check engine light
shrpshtr325 said:
ummm im going to say thats probably not good, they tell you to drive gently until the engine warms up to reduce wear from high speed moving parts.

also I assume that you mean you put the selector in D and it wont shift past 3rd gear until the trans warms up, if so it could easily be a bad trans temp sensor which should be an easy enough fix. you can confirm this with a higher end (not a hf or cheapo) scantool which can read live sensor data.
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Know the issue, it's a bad temp switch. Was told it's an expensive fix, to me $500 is expensive for an old 1st Gen Pilot. I'll just drive local and stay off highways for the first 15mins. Been doing this for 2 years and gets a little worse each year. Just needs to last for another 15 months and I'll get a replacement.
 
shrpshtr325 said:
ummm im going to say thats probably not good, they tell you to drive gently until the engine warms up to reduce wear from high speed moving parts.

also I assume that you mean you put the selector in D and it wont shift past 3rd gear until the trans warms up, if so it could easily be a bad trans temp sensor which should be an easy enough fix. you can confirm this with a higher end (not a hf or cheapo) scantool which can read live sensor data.
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I wouldn't worry about the engine at this point(high miles) if he isn't burning enough oil to cause an issue then it wont ever be an issue since its all aluminum and I don't think J series motors came with forged pistons so there isn't extra play when its cold.
 
qclabrat said:
Outside, the germans are inside
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Next cold day you have a chance park it in the garage over night and see if it helps in the morning, maybe your trans fluid is gunked up and not flowing till it warms up.

If that doesn't help on the next day keeping the garage door closed turn it on and stay in the garage for at least 2 hours
 
in all seriousness park it in the garage one night and see if it helps it sounds like warming it up helps and I'm assuming the tranny fluid hasn't been changed.... ever
 
Miracle Max Saved Norm's Ride Today said:
Next cold day you have a chance park it in the garage over night and see if it helps in the morning, maybe your trans fluid is gunked up and not flowing till it warms up.

If that doesn't help on the next day keeping the garage door closed turn it on and stay in the garage for at least 2 hours
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Only an issue when cold for the last 3 years. Odd the switch konks out at 40 and below. Should I stay in the garage? I don't understand cars...
 
I’ve put cardboard behind the vent cover temporarily. Also you can actually use duct tape on your ducts to ensure 1000% ghetto fix.
 
THATmanMANNY said:
I have a similar situation to the photo here. After I tile the floor the top of the trap nut will sit flush with the tile or below the top of finished floor. Right now the top of the nut sits 1/2" above the cement board. Therefore, it will be difficult for me to tighten the drain nut. I would have to tile a majority of the floor under the tub and leave out are around the drain connection. Place the tub, tighten the drain nut, and then tile the missing area.

Do they sell TALLER drain nuts (plastic white piece) or extension tool to reach into the floor and around the drain nut?

View attachment 82443
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extend the pipe below the nut - just cut it, add a coupler, and some more pipe - those trap adapters are cheap enough.
unfortunately this puts plastic above the floor - with a bit of work, you might be able to get just the nut above the floor.

i think code calls for the floor to be sealed for water penetration, including the wall junction.
 
jmanic said:
Looking like vents are aluminum, or unobtainium, something non-ferrous, which brings us to...
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vents in the floor or screwed to the walls? floor ones just lift out, so easy with plastic -
 
fidodie said:
vents in the floor or screwed to the walls? floor ones just lift out, so easy with plastic -
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Screwed to the ceiling.
Thinking the same.
Batting stuffed into the vents, plastic as a vapor barrier under the vent.
 
What Max said - trapping the moisture overhead might not be the best idea - just stop most of the convection - maybe with rock wool?
 
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