The DIY thread - DIYourself

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
What to do with the flood variety with the dimples? Suctions don't wotk

aren't the dimples on the inside?
there are the spring loaded "around the rim" attachments. might fit behind a bezel. might not.
 

02camaro

Well-Known Member
Doing air conditioning install in my 71 camaro and took advantage of having the dash out to put in front speakers. Didn't have a bracket and wouldn't pay $80 for one so I sloppily but efficiently made one. Looks good from the outside which was the goal

Snapchat-1766686153.jpgSnapchat-1347171017.jpg20180414_231852.jpg20180409_234120.jpg
 
Last edited:

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
PICTURES!!!!!! :D

amazing how everything is a pain - always a "who designed this" swoon......
i've heard of people cutting access holes through floorboards for some plugs.

I think that was an early model Mustang if I remember correctly, they issued a TSB instructing techs to cut a hole in the firewall or something like that...

Anyhow, what worked for me:

1 - huff and puff for hours trying to loosen the #1 spark plug, break PCV pipe in the process
2 - order a cordless ratchet and an air ratchet and a replacement PCV pipe
3 - give up out of desperation and rent a car
4 - soak spark plug in liquid wrench
5 - go to Florida for a week
6 - remove #1 spark plug after more huffing and puffing and breaking the EVAP purge solenoid (thanks for the back-n-forth trick)
7 - drop a M10 nut in the engine bay never to be seen again.
8 - ordering a replacement EVAP purge solenoid
9 - temporary ghetto repair of the EVAP purge solenoid with some electrical tape.
10 - voila!

Now waiting for the new EVAP purge valve, otherwise everything seems to be fine.
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
The far bathroom takes forever to get hot water. Faucet takes 5 min to get warm water in the mornings. Thinking of adding an electric tankless water heater to work with the hot water line. The heater should turn off after the incoming water reaches the right temp. Anyone done this? Seems like an easy job. We used to have a recirculating system, but it takes a fortune to run.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
The far bathroom takes forever to get hot water. Faucet takes 5 min to get warm water in the mornings. Thinking of adding an electric tankless water heater to work with the hot water line. The heater should turn off after the incoming water reaches the right temp. Anyone done this? Seems like an easy job. We used to have a recirculating system, but it takes a fortune to run.
Having a similar problem with the new combo gas unit, looks like the additional copper pipes reaching across the furnace room are cooling the hot water considerably, as it takes longer for the water to get hot as compared to the old oil furnace, which was on the side of the furnace room closer to the house. New pipes are not insulated, so that will be the first step for me.
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
Having a similar problem with the new combo gas unit, looks like the additional copper pipes reaching across the furnace room are cooling the hot water considerably, as it takes longer for the water to get hot as compared to the old oil furnace, which was on the side of the furnace room closer to the house. New pipes are not insulated, so that will be the first step for me.
I've read the insulation doesn't do much to keep the water hot for the run of the pipes, its just too far from the tank, guessing about 100ft. However did insulate where possible cause it doesn't hurt
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
The far bathroom takes forever to get hot water. Faucet takes 5 min to get warm water in the mornings. Thinking of adding an electric tankless water heater to work with the hot water line. The heater should turn off after the incoming water reaches the right temp. Anyone done this? Seems like an easy job. We used to have a recirculating system, but it takes a fortune to run.

Please time a pint of water for me - here is the critical info.

100'x1/2"

vol in cuin: pi r^2 h

pi(.25)^2x100x12 = 235 cuin
144cuin = 7.5gal (yes, there are 7.5 gallons in a cubic foot)

you would need to flow over 12 gallons of water to reach there.

i'd say 100' is really long - but even 2/3 of that is quite a bit.

don't these things draw 30amps@240v?
If it is just to wash a face/hands, might be cheaper to put in a small tank (like 3 gallons) under the sink, and use the existing electric in the bathroom.
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
Please time a pint of water for me - here is the critical info.

100'x1/2"

vol in cuin: pi r^2 h

pi(.25)^2x100x12 = 235 cuin
144cuin = 7.5gal (yes, there are 7.5 gallons in a cubic foot)

you would need to flow over 12 gallons of water to reach there.

i'd say 100' is really long - but even 2/3 of that is quite a bit.

don't these things draw 30amps@240v?
If it is just to wash a face/hands, might be cheaper to put in a small tank (like 3 gallons) under the sink, and use the existing electric in the bathroom.
they do make a 120v tankless, but slow about 1G/min
But if I hook it to the hot water line, will it work? or can it only feed in cold water?

1523918600241.png


I could also try to fit in a 4 gallon Point of use, they make a 2.5 model also
1523918475075.png
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
they do make a 120v tankless, but slow about 1G/min
But if I hook it to the hot water line, will it work? or can it only feed in cold water?

View attachment 67261


I could also try to fit in a 4 gallon Point of use, they make a 2.5 model also
View attachment 67260

wouldn't think more than a gal/min is needed at a sink.
i'm sure it shuts down if it overheats when plumbed to a hot (meaning i'm sure, but not in a technical, read the docs sure)
looks like it is spliced into the 3/8" flex plumbing ??? which would make sense.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
Please time a pint of water for me - here is the critical info.

100'x1/2"

vol in cuin: pi r^2 h

pi(.25)^2x100x12 = 235 cuin
144cuin = 7.5gal (yes, there are 7.5 gallons in a cubic foot)

you would need to flow over 12 gallons of water to reach there.

i'd say 100' is really long - but even 2/3 of that is quite a bit.

don't these things draw 30amps@240v?
If it is just to wash a face/hands, might be cheaper to put in a small tank (like 3 gallons) under the sink, and use the existing electric in the bathroom.

@qclabrat - realized i blew the math here while driving the car today -
i pictured 24x24x12 half inch pipes in a block, and realized i used square inches rather than cuin..

so about 1 gallon of water if it is only hot water.

if it is a single handle faucet, without a balancing/anti scald valve, turn off the cold water under the sink.
turn on the hot water, and measure a pint, and time it until hot. See if it does better with the cold water off.
should only be a gallon of water at 100'. shower flows 1.5 gpm, not sure about a sink.
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
@qclabrat - realized i blew the math here while driving the car today -
i pictured 24x24x12 half inch pipes in a block, and realized i used square inches rather than cuin..

so about 1 gallon of water if it is only hot water.

if it is a single handle faucet, without a balancing/anti scald valve, turn off the cold water under the sink.
turn on the hot water, and measure a pint, and time it until hot. See if it does better with the cold water off.
should only be a gallon of water at 100'. shower flows 1.5 gpm, not sure about a sink.
that seems low, the 7.5 G seems more inline with my observations
Our closest bathroom to the water heater is roughly in the middle of the house, each morning and before evening showers we collect about 2 gallons of water from the tub to get the water warm for either the faucets or showers. The bucket of water is reused for flushing, why waste water right? It's not hot, but warm enough to wash hands and face. I can do a test to see how much water to collect for warm water from the far bathroom, but pretty sure it will be close to 5 gallons.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
that seems low, the 7.5 G seems more inline with my observations
Our closest bathroom to the water heater is roughly in the middle of the house, each morning and before evening showers we collect about 2 gallons of water from the tub to get the water warm for either the faucets or showers. The bucket of water is reused for flushing, why waste water right? It's not hot, but warm enough to wash hands and face. I can do a test to see how much water to collect for warm water from the far bathroom, but pretty sure it will be close to 5 gallons.

that is the math - double check me.

- something else is wrong - either getting too much cold even on full hot, or something is causing some sort of loop or backflow
(like the old recirculation system - which should be on a timer, and a separate 3 gallon heater)

i
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
I think that was an early model Mustang if I remember correctly, they issued a TSB instructing techs to cut a hole in the firewall or something like that...

Anyhow, what worked for me:

1 - huff and puff for hours trying to loosen the #1 spark plug, break PCV pipe in the process
2 - order a cordless ratchet and an air ratchet and a replacement PCV pipe
3 - give up out of desperation and rent a car
4 - soak spark plug in liquid wrench
5 - go to Florida for a week
6 - remove #1 spark plug after more huffing and puffing and breaking the EVAP purge solenoid (thanks for the back-n-forth trick)
7 - drop a M10 nut in the engine bay never to be seen again.
8 - ordering a replacement EVAP purge solenoid
9 - temporary ghetto repair of the EVAP purge solenoid with some electrical tape.
10 - voila!

Now waiting for the new EVAP purge valve, otherwise everything seems to be fine.

New EVAP Purge solenoid installed, car pulls hard as never before but it has developed a pinging sound under heavy acceleration that wasn't there before. prior to the tuneup I filled the tank at a gas station that I never used before, so today I used the usual Shell station to fill up again. No difference, still pinging. Also, the EGR valve is brand new as I had to change it around a month ago (turns out it causes the stabilitrack light to come on when bad, go figure) . I've also checked and everything is connected and bottoned up (clamps, electrical connectors etc.)

Somehow I can see this thing going down the path of the frozen water main...
 

rlb

Well-Known Member
New EVAP Purge solenoid installed, car pulls hard as never before but it has developed a pinging sound under heavy acceleration that wasn't there before. prior to the tuneup I filled the tank at a gas station that I never used before, so today I used the usual Shell station to fill up again. No difference, still pinging. Also, the EGR valve is brand new as I had to change it around a month ago (turns out it causes the stabilitrack light to come on when bad, go figure) . I've also checked and everything is connected and bottoned up (clamps, electrical connectors etc.)

Somehow I can see this thing going down the path of the frozen water main...

This isn't throwing a CEL? If it's detonation it'll eventually blow a ring and/or put a hole in a piston, need to get that figured out...
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Car is being dropped at the mechanic tomorrow. No CEL, everything is fine other than the pinging sound on hard acceleration. Only other thing left to check is the oil level, other than that I'm at the end of the road...

endoftheroad.jpg
 

Danimal

Well-Known Member
Car is being dropped at the mechanic tomorrow. No CEL, everything is fine other than the pinging sound on hard acceleration. Only other thing left to check is the oil level, other than that I'm at the end of the road...

View attachment 67428
Did you drive the car enough to get the mystery gas out of the system ? Maybe try some techron and run it through to see if anything changes. Or maybe your plug gap or plugs are wrong ?
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Mistery gas probably still there but I filled it with 89 (should have used 93 for the price difference) to up the octane count. Plugs came pre-gapped, I double checked them anyway to prevent having second thoughts about it and thinking to take them out and measure them, too much of an hassle given the location of the right bank. Oil was kind of low, close to oil change anyway so I added a quarter but did not notice a significant improvement if any at all. I am not even sure if it’s really pinging, the car had an issue with the cooling system gurgling for a while now, no overheating nor problems with the heater core, just a gurgling sound when cold or accelerating, could be related, maybe I’ll vacuum purge the cooling system or even change the water pump. I’ll see what the tech says. I’ve been very happy with this car, purchased used off a used car dealer with 78k on the odometer and it has been giving me very little issues up to now, eight years and another 75k later.
 
Top Bottom