Smart home smart devices

#21
For lights and water leak sensors I use Insteon. I have a bunch of leak sensors, 3 or 4 switches (note they require neutrals in the box), a ceiling fan controller, and a "smoke bridge" (links to first alert smoke alarms so I get a notification if they go off). It's controlled by a central hub with free cloud access, which works great for the basics (controlling everything through the app, setting schedules, configuring the notifications).

The one drawback I've encountered is that my first hub died after about 3 years. There was no way to transfer my home config to a new hub, I had to start from scratch.
What are these leak detectors? Could use something like that for the florida compound.
 

Mitch

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
#23
I own an Security System company and have been installing the DSC, QOLSYS systems on ALARM. COM.
The technology is great with all of this but the fact that they dont all play well together sucks. Google, Alexa, and others make it where you have to choose 1 or the other even though they do the same thing. Luckily my alarm panels are also smart home hubs so I dont have to choose. @jmanic I can hook you up with something security wise as well . 8 beers monthly,
 

rlb

Well-Known Member
#24
What are these leak detectors? Could use something like that for the florida compound.
https://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2852-222-water-leak-sensor.html

I placed these in a bunch of spots around the house after I had some undetected leakage under my kitchen sink wreak havoc. They're pretty straight-forward, they link to the hub then you config the sensor (via app) to send you an alert if water is detected. It's not a perfect system, it doesn't work if the power or internet goes out.

You can get a motorized valve to shut off the water when a leak is detected.
 

Mathers

Well-Known Member
#25
I own an Security System company and have been installing the DSC, QOLSYS systems on ALARM. COM.
The technology is great with all of this but the fact that they dont all play well together sucks. Google, Alexa, and others make it where you have to choose 1 or the other even though they do the same thing. Luckily my alarm panels are also smart home hubs so I dont have to choose. @jmanic I can hook you up with something security wise as well . 8 beers monthly,
What’s the company?
 

fidodie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#26
https://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2852-222-water-leak-sensor.html

I placed these in a bunch of spots around the house after I had some undetected leakage under my kitchen sink wreak havoc. They're pretty straight-forward, they link to the hub then you config the sensor (via app) to send you an alert if water is detected. It's not a perfect system, it doesn't work if the power or internet goes out.

You can get a motorized valve to shut off the water when a leak is detected.
i have a battery op leak detector under my washer - if it leaks, it closes mechanical gate valves. not a smart device tho.
they make them for water heaters and home mains.
 
#28
https://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2852-222-water-leak-sensor.html

I placed these in a bunch of spots around the house after I had some undetected leakage under my kitchen sink wreak havoc. They're pretty straight-forward, they link to the hub then you config the sensor (via app) to send you an alert if water is detected. It's not a perfect system, it doesn't work if the power or internet goes out.

You can get a motorized valve to shut off the water when a leak is detected.
Thanks, will look into this next week.
 

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
#30
i'll just throw this out there on the power wire thing - they can be powered off a doorbell transformer, or a wall bug (25vac) if needed. just fish another
two wire cable, and hook one to the common, and one to the white(or red, depending) - one transformer can not up the voltage of another unless linked in series
(which makes one larger transformer) - that would then produce a missing wire.
Aaaand of course you anticipated my next move....

So I have a 2 zone system, heat only, and looking to just control the main zone via smart t-stat.
Existing connection is 2 wires, and reading up on the aquastat on the boiler,
there's no easy way to connect a C wire. (If you want to geek on it: Honeywell L8124A, C)
I would have to remove the circuit board, and solder a connection to the back of it.
No way am I going to mess with that.

As I was getting despondent over possible options,
I came across this from the folks over at Emerson for hacking a plug in transformer for their Sensei:
https://sensi.emerson.com/en-us/support/adding-a-24-vac-external-transformer

This is perfect, because that was the model I had settled on- cheap, and it does everything I need.

So, not ecstatic about not being able to hardwire this jammy,
but I can live with a secure plug somewhere.
I'll have to see my options.
My question: is there any limitation to extending the cord from the transformer?

For example, I could use the existing wires to fish through a new run of 18/4, 5 or 6,
replacing the existing R/W and use 2 wires from the new cabling to connect to the adapter in the crawlspace near the boiler.
If it matters, the run would likely be in the neighborhood of 20-25'.
What say ye @fidodie?
 

fidodie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#31
pull through a new wire, you just need to hook to the correct wire on the x2 side of the existing transformer.
if the xformer is soldered to the control board, they have accessory screws to
do things like run zone valves.

the aquastat is to keep the water in the boiler near operating temp (or shut heating if over temp)
there should be another controller for the thermostat, pump (call for heat)..

you can use an external transformer on any thermostat requiring power - cause electricity.
W and R may be reversed in some cases.

Code:
  thermostat
  W     R     C
   \   /  \  /
  boiler  xformer
if you are going to use a second transformer (nothing wrong with that) run at least 4 wires, maybe 5.
the wire in the wall may be stapled, or have a knot in it...pull through a fish tape, rather than another wire, then pull back
the new wire.
 

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
#33
the aquastat is to keep the water in the boiler near operating temp (or shut heating if over temp)
there should be another controller for the thermostat, pump (call for heat)..
Hmmm.
This is all I saw, will take another look.
It does have 2 lines tied in labeled Thermostat ??
 

fidodie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#34
Hmmm.
This is all I saw, will take another look.
It does have 2 lines tied in labeled Thermostat ??
it can have the thermostat off of it - maybe t1/t2 terminals?
i forgot i added zone controllers, as opposed to multiple pumps.
my bad -
 

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
#35
it can have the thermostat off of it - maybe t1/t2 terminals?
i forgot i added zone controllers, as opposed to multiple pumps.
my bad -
Actually will need to inspect more closely. Looking at the pictures I took, the lines connected to the T1/T2 screws are not red/white.

However it plays out, I’m glad there’s a solution endorsed by the t-stat company.
And I bought me a fish tape thingy, which will be handy for the speaker wiring project that is in the wings....
 

fidodie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#36
Actually will need to inspect more closely. Looking at the pictures I took, the lines connected to the T1/T2 screws are not red/white.

However it plays out, I’m glad there’s a solution endorsed by the t-stat company.
And I bought me a fish tape thingy, which will be handy for the speaker wiring project that is in the wings....
well, i should work on @UtahJoe's project after riding friday afternoon...but, what are the post wildcat plans?