Shimano hub adjustment not going my way

extremedave

extremedave

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
So I'm getting my ass kicked setting up this stoopid old skool axle. What seems to keep happening is the drive side end cap gets loose, then the whole deal rotates some and over tightens the cone side adjustment. So I've got a wobbly axle on one side and jammed up bearings on the other. Hope my explanation makes sense here...

One method I saw was to tighten the drive side completely (I guess I'll have to hold the axle with pliers in the middle) then do all the adjustments from the non drive side. Which is how you're supposed to do it, but it's easy for the whole assembly to spin if you can't hold the drive side end cap. Thanks.

Various pics/links of the design.
31658.jpg



http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/media/t...003/SI_4DA0B_001_En_v1_m56577569830646896.pdf
 
Juggernaut

Juggernaut

Master of the Metaphor
This is going to sound lame, but I think rather than cranking the shit out of the drive side and (by default) messing with the bearings, you may want to assemble the drive side with some lock-tight because the drive side wants to loosen. Bearing tension can be finicky. An example of same would be headset bearings. Tension too much and the steering is crunchy, not enough and the whole damn front end feels wobbly.

Good luck!

D-
 
mstyer

mstyer

Well-Known Member
Basically you'll want to remove the non-drive locknut and cone so that you can slide the axle out the drive side. At that point you can re-tighten the locknut against the drive side cone properly, reinsert the axle, and then reassemble and adjust the non-drive side.
 
Santapez

Santapez

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
It looks like that's a slightly different setup from the older hubs where there is an actual lock-nut, here the end-caps are the lock-nut. It's also nice that one side is at least in a cage, making things easier.

Locktite drive side, adjust from non-drive side. I would use locktite-blue, maybe even green on the non-drive side so that after it's adjusted it stays in place.

Gotta make sure it's adjusted where it's the right tension on the bearings while in the frame/fork. The quick release usually adds in tension.

-Steve
 
GSTim

GSTim

Formerly M3Tim
Do you have cone wrenches? If so, then start like everyone is saying by tightening the drive side then only work on the non-drive. If you have cone wrenches you shouldn't need pliers to hold the axle. Tighten the cone so it's just tight with no play then use the cone wrench to hold in place while you use the hex to tighten the end cap against the cone. You may have to do it a few (hundred :D) times until you get the right tension with no play and smooth rolling. As Steve says, you may need to adjust further if the QR adds tension.
 
stb222

stb222

Love Drunk
Jerk Squad
M3Tim said:
Do you have cone wrenches? If so, then start like everyone is saying by tightening the drive side then only work on the non-drive. If you have cone wrenches you shouldn't need pliers to hold the axle. Tighten the cone so it's just tight with no play then use the cone wrench to hold in place while you use the hex to tighten the end cap against the cone. You may have to do it a few (hundred :D) times until you get the right tension with no play and smooth rolling. As Steve says, you may need to adjust further if the QR adds tension.
Click to expand...
If done correctly, the QR should not effect the tension. Tim got it though, you need the one wrench to hold the on nut while you tighten the other, otherwise you are tightening the enter this together.

The higher end shimano stuff is some of the smoothest stuff other there.


Tighten like this,
giphy.gif


Not this
giphy.gif
 
Karate Monkey

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
Santapez said:
[snip]Locktite drive side, adjust from non-drive side. I would use locktite-blue, maybe even green on the non-drive side so that after it's adjusted it stays in place.
Click to expand...

Precession is a bitch. Loctite 242 won't cut it, and anything that will stop it might as well be inseparable. You can use Loctite 271 (heat removal) for more security on the side you don't want to move.

Shimano solved the problem with the "digital adjustment system" on Dura Ace/Ultegra hubs, but haven't attempted it on the mountain side, for whatever reason.
 
extremedave

extremedave

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
The pliers idea was to hold the axle so as to get enough tension on the drive side. @M3Tim I made myself a cone wrench that works fine but I didn't have the drive side locked down first-I think this is ultimately my problem. @Santapez I was thinking loctite on that side also, I'll try blue for starts.

I was having trouble with the lock nut moving the cone even holding it with a wrench, but I think this was a side effect of the drive side moving and affecting the tension.
I'd read also that the QR will snug things up but @stb222 says no so I'll try and nail the tension beforehand.

@Flaubert worst case is I throw it in the trash (fire!!!!) and swap my Arch's off the Epic. But other than this issue I'm fine with the hoops (shimano WH-MT75 if anyone cares).
Hopefully the hub didn't get borked from the bearings being overtightened.

Thanks all, appreciate the input. Funny I was afraid nobody would have a clue what I was rambling about here! Good stuff.
 
stb222

stb222

Love Drunk
Jerk Squad
extremedave said:
The pliers idea was to hold the axle so as to get enough tension on the drive side. @M3Tim I made myself a cone wrench that works fine but I didn't have the drive side locked down first-I think this is ultimately my problem. @satanpez I was thinking loctite on that side also, I'll try blue for starts.

I was having trouble with the lock nut moving the cone even holding it with a wrench, but I think this was a side effect of the drive side moving and affecting the tension.
I'd read also that the QR will snug things up but @stb222 says no so I'll try and nail the tension beforehand.

@Flaubert worst case is I throw it in the trash (fire!!!!) and swap my Arch's off the Epic. But other than this issue I'm fine with the hoops (shimano WH-MT75 if anyone cares).
Hopefully the hub didn't get borked from the bearings being overtightened.

Thanks all, appreciate the input. Funny I was afraid nobody would have a clue what I was rambling about here! Good stuff.
Click to expand...
If the QR is compressing it, it means you dont have it adjusted properly
 
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