GT350R Carbon Fiber Wheel Info

UtahJoe

UtahJoe

Team Workhorse
Team MTBNJ Halter's
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shrpshtr325

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Carson said:
I agree with this 100% with one exception: I know turbo motors are harder on oil but I don't know how much. Or how much turbos like fresh oil.

M2 is getting changed once a season which will be about 5K. Oil analysis shows it can go 7500+ easily, but I'm worried about the turbo more that anything. Staggered tires on the M2 so no rotations to worry about anyway. Raptor will get 5K oil changes while it's up my buddy's lift to rotate the $300 BFG KOs so they don't burn up. Jetta lease is getting changed once a year only because the dealer service is included in the lease (and I have the turbo spooled from startup to shutdown).

Question on the Bimmer: should I change it in the fall before it sits all winter or first thing in the spring? Or either?
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as for turbos, i have analysis from the fiances 2.0T genesis coupe at 10k miles which shows plenty of life left, every time i drive with her its always spooled, and i cant see how you drive the car without it spooling up as its a gutless turd until the turbo spools up, she doesnt idle it at shutdown to cool the turbo or anything like that, if you like to see the results LMK, ill share.

another note, Castrol is coming out with an oil specifically designed for turbocharged engines (higher heat ect ect).

as for when to do the annual oil change (this is how the challenger will live its life now that i have a truck) i will be doing it in the SPRING to get any moisture that condensed in the engine out before running it very much (it will go like this, start up, pull out of garage, idle up to temp, drain oil)

but there are people who will say it doesnt matter, and those that prefer to change it in the fall, but remember when you read the manual for any seasonal use engines (lawn mower, snow blower, generator) they all say to change it when bringing OUT of storage, the reason is to get the moisture out of the crank case.
 
Monkey Soup

Monkey Soup

Angry Wanker
shrpshtr325 said:
as for turbos, i have analysis from the fiances 2.0T genesis coupe at 10k miles which shows plenty of life left, every time i drive with her its always spooled, and i cant see how you drive the car without it spooling up as its a gutless turd until the turbo spools up, she doesnt idle it at shutdown to cool the turbo or anything like that, if you like to see the results LMK, ill share.

another note, Castrol is coming out with an oil specifically designed for turbocharged engines (higher heat ect ect).

as for when to do the annual oil change (this is how the challenger will live its life now that i have a truck) i will be doing it in the SPRING to get any moisture that condensed in the engine out before running it very much (it will go like this, start up, pull out of garage, idle up to temp, drain oil)

but there are people who will say it doesnt matter, and those that prefer to change it in the fall, but remember when you read the manual for any seasonal use engines (lawn mower, snow blower, generator) they all say to change it when bringing OUT of storage, the reason is to get the moisture out of the crank case.
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I don't know how much better they can make oil these days, especially now that they recommend 10k changes? Oil is pretty good, the weak link is the filter. Most filters aren't good enough for extended intervals. Your oil is probably still good at 10-12k, but your filter is clogged and now the oil is bypassing your filter and circulating back into valvetrain and bore.

After storage (and before any oil change really), the best thing to do is to bring it up to operating temp for at least 20-30min. (depending on the size of the motor), make sure the block is hot, before changing the oil. That way you make sure that the oil temp is higher than the boiling temp for water in as much of the motor as possible, and you boil all of it out of the engine. Think about it, if you only get it up to temp then immediately drain the oil, you could be leaving moisture behind even after the change.
 
shrpshtr325

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Monkey Soup said:
I don't know how much better they can make oil these days, especially now that they recommend 10k changes? Oil is pretty good, the weak link is the filter. Most filters aren't good enough for extended intervals. Your oil is probably still good at 10-12k, but your filter is clogged and now the oil is bypassing your filter and circulating back into valvetrain and bore.

After storage (and before any oil change really), the best thing to do is to bring it up to operating temp for at least 20-30min. (depending on the size of the motor), make sure the block is hot, before changing the oil. That way you make sure that the oil temp is higher than the boiling temp for water in as much of the motor as possible, and you boil all of it out of the engine. Think about it, if you only get it up to temp then immediately drain the oil, you could be leaving moisture behind even after the change.
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the oils are probably good to 20k in a well maintained engine TBH (hell mobile is advertising 20k miles so what is it REALLY good to???) however you are right, most oil filters are not good past 5k. Purolator makes filters with different milage lifespans on them, and they seem to be pretty good, the classics are rated for 5k miles (and the gasket on them tends to start leaking around 6k miles IME), the purolatorONE is rated for 10k miles (i have been running them for a while and they seem to be holding up just fine) and the BOSS is rated for 15k miles. Now in order for their internal legal department to allow them to make those claims publicly the filter is still filtering at those milages, and probably beyond to some extent just as a CYA move.

and yes idling up to temperature, i should have been more specific, i have an oil temp gauge in my car i change the oil when the OIL temp is all the way up, however the oil will collect any moisture that has accumulated on the block while in storage (the oil wants to cling to the iron(some engines are aluminium) block) and it should be held in suspension and drained with the oil. Getting oil up beyond the 212*F at idle would take an excessively long time and id rather not load the engine up with potentially contaminated oil in it.
 
rick81721

rick81721

Lothar
Carson said:
Did you drive it down or transport it?
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Drove to Lorton Va for the auto train. They had to use additional ramps to clear the splitter getting it off the train. I was paranoid driving to the train when temps were in the teens.

Talking to one of our neighbors here, he was a 2015 50th anniversary mustang GT and same year vette in his garage. Both cars have less than 200 miles on them!
 
rick81721

rick81721

Lothar
Nah this guy has houses in NY and NC, he just had the mustang and vette shipped down. There are some windy roads around here, no hills tho.
 
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