Drivetrain

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Mikeborg82

Member
i converted from. 2x10 to 1x10. Love it. One issue, big steep climbs, I feel like I'm missing a gear. I have a 11 - 36. What can I do? Do I need to change over to a 11 sp mech. Would like to go up to 11 - 42... options/thoughts? Thanks
 
You can go 11-40/42 10 spd cassette or get an extender with 40 or 42t cog depending on the current cassette you already have.

What chainring are u using in your setup? If on a 32t, you can go with a smaller 30t up front.
 
C8N said:
What chainring are u using in your setup? If on a 32t, you can go with a smaller 30t up front.
Click to expand...

I'm running the same setup as you and this is likely my next move. Although the 32t front does make you go faster. ;)
 
went from a 30T 11-36 10-speed to a 30T 10-42 11-speed. honestly haven't noticed too much of a difference.

Both sram and shimano say their 10-speed mechs are only designed for a max 36t cog. I went to a praxis 11-40 for a short time and had some issues shifting. If you step up to an extended range cog, make sure you adjust your chain accordingly and that you have a long cage mech. Agree with just grinding through it. It'll get easier.
 
hey, welcome to the 1X club, everyone is doing it....
it's whats going to define this decade of Mtb including wide bars, slammed stems and plus tires.

I've been converting most of my bikes to 1X as well. I mostly ride at Chimney but my recent 30T-42T experiment on a fat bike feels too low, I'm planning to setup another bike at 32T-40T to see it that's the sweet spot for me. I already know I wanted more than 32T-36T which was a previous setup. Have few more combos to go if all else fails. Depending what you are riding up front, I'd going with a nice NW 30/32 upfront before changing the cassette or add on ring.
 
Mikeborg82 said:
i converted from. 2x10 to 1x10. Love it. One issue, big steep climbs, I feel like I'm missing a gear. I have a 11 - 36. What can I do? Do I need to change over to a 11 sp mech. Would like to go up to 11 - 42... options/thoughts? Thanks
Click to expand...

You can stay 10 speed if you want and have a few options that were noted by others:

1. Smaller Chainring - Depending on what you are running now you might be able to go to a smaller chainring up front
2. 40 or 42T sprocket swap - adds the lower gear. One Up, Wolftooth and a number of others make these.
3. New 11-40 or 11-42 cassette - Sunrace makes a pretty good one at a great price.

The newer derailleurs with clutch systems seems to be the preferred choice for 40/42 options.
 
RickVaughn said:
went from a 30T 11-36 10-speed to a 30T 10-42 11-speed. honestly haven't noticed too much of a difference.

Both sram and shimano say their 10-speed mechs are only designed for a max 36t cog. I went to a praxis 11-40 for a short time and had some issues shifting. If you step up to an extended range cog, make sure you adjust your chain accordingly and that you have a long cage mech. Agree with just grinding through it. It'll get easier.
Click to expand...

I've asked here a few times without clear answers on cage lengths and wide gear ranges. I was always under the assumption that long cages are only to take up slack on really small front chainrings like 22 and 24 for triples and 2X. Many going to 1X have suggested using a short cage (mtbr) as it provides more clearance from rock strikes. My experience is only for a 42T Wolf Tooth extender and a X9 type 2 mid cage works fine. The XO short cage didn't seem to have the clearance, but I did read later that I should have experimented more with the chain length.

Wolf tooth recommends using the SRAM type2 derailleurs since the upper jockey wheels have a different design to clear larger cogs. Also, if you are on Shimano, most recommend the goatlink over a longer b-screw for your clutch D. Good luck and let us know your results.
 
I run an x9 medium cage with the one-up. they want the the long cage if leaving 2x up front. and no need for the 'rad cage' unless 2x

i rarely use the 42t cog - it is extremely low. so low, that if you need acceleration to stay upright, it won't be there. extended climbs, without tech seems ok.

adding the larger cog, rather than smaller chainring maintains the top end speeds. you might able to spin out 30x11 rather quickly.

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...2t-conversion-oneup-vs-wolf-tooth-897313.html

There is one other piece of advice i received
per @jimvreeland - nobody likes walking, don't change the bike, change your ability
Maybe that is why i haven't been using the 42t - but it is nice when i need it.
 
Now that i think of it, my b+ bike is 32x10-42. (but x11) and i like it! i still don't go that low often.

i heard @UtahJoe has some 11speed stuff available!
 
qclabrat said:
I've asked here a few times without clear answers on cage lengths and wide gear ranges. I was always under the assumption that long cages are only to take up slack on really small front chainrings like 22 and 24 for triples and 2X. Many going to 1X have suggested using a short cage (mtbr) as it provides more clearance from rock strikes. My experience is only for a 42T Wolf Tooth extender and a X9 type 2 mid cage works fine. The XO short cage didn't seem to have the clearance, but I did read later that I should have experimented more with the chain length.

Wolf tooth recommends using the SRAM type2 derailleurs since the upper jockey wheels have a different design to clear larger cogs. Also, if you are on Shimano, most recommend the goatlink over a longer b-screw for your clutch D. Good luck and let us know your results.
Click to expand...

What @fidodie said on the cage lengths.

You can use a long cage, but don't need it unless you were running 2x or 3x up front. The shorter cages supposedly provides slightly crisper shifting, but I'm not sure I would be able to notice the difference.
 
fidodie said:
I run an x9 medium cage with the one-up. they want the the long cage if leaving 2x up front. and no need for the 'rad cage' unless 2x

i rarely use the 42t cog - it is extremely low. so low, that if you need acceleration to stay upright, it won't be there. extended climbs, without tech seems ok.

adding the larger cog, rather than smaller chainring maintains the top end speeds. you might able to spin out 30x11 rather quickly.

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...2t-conversion-oneup-vs-wolf-tooth-897313.html

There is one other piece of advice i received
per @jimvreeland - nobody likes walking, don't change the bike, change your ability
Maybe that is why i haven't been using the 42t - but it is nice when i need it.
Click to expand...
I'm looking for about 20-21 gear inches for the low end
is it possible to just throw on one of those 11-46T Sunrace cassettes and a 11spd chain to a current 10spd SRAM setup? I'll also be swapping the chainring to 34 or 36 to get there.
Seems like a nice compromise on the high gear while still having lots of range, but probably not that easy...
 
qclabrat said:
I'm looking for about 20-21 gear inches for the low end
is it possible to just throw on one of those 11-46T Sunrace cassettes and a 11spd chain to a current 10spd SRAM setup? I'll also be swapping the chainring to 34 or 36 to get there.
Seems like a nice compromise on the high gear while still having lots of range, but probably not that easy...
Click to expand...

Can't help with the swap info. No smarts there.

amazing that the whole cartridge can be had for the price of a single cog....but then other items have to be changed??
I think @pearl identified the 11-42 xt package under $250.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-Shiman...826206?hash=item5431be941e:g:mTMAAOSwNuxXa1HR

and 46t under $300

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-Shiman...376301?hash=item43fc571ced:g:IHsAAOSwImRYm7O6
 
I am going through similar dilemmas. I am currently building up a 26er from miscellaneous parts. The LBS mech said that for 26inch wheel size to go with a 34t up front and an 11-42 10sp Sunrace cassette (about $60). He said that for bigger wheels (29er, 27+) you can go with 30t or 32t up front. I didn't think wheel size had much to do with it but maybe it does. I ended up taking his advice but I am concerned I am not go have enough low end with the 34t (the original bike that the parts came off of had a 32t in the middle of 3x10 which adds to my skepticism). I am also not the greatest climber and in my head I am thinking I should have gone with with a 30t or 32t up front. I haven't installed it yet but we'll see how I do.

On a side note... I had intended on using the OneUp Extender solution with my original XT 11-36 10sp (its virtually brand new) but the mech said the Sunrace will shift smoother than the XT/OneUp solution and be less expensive.

I am curious if anyone has any thoughts on choosing gearing based on wheel size?
 
@rideon the wheel size has an impact on the overall drive ratio as well as the gearing and crank length. In the end, if all of your bikes have the same crank length then gear inches should be a good calc for comparison between all of your bikes. When in doubt always defer to the late great Sheldon Brown. If you're not familiar, it's a great place to get some insight on the basic foundation mechanics of bikes and cycling, the stuff that doesn't change. You wont see any of the newer bike trend stuff there since he passed away 9 years ago, but it's a good resource!

Side note, it would be cool if someone cataloged that site and organized it a bit better. Good info there, but it's all a bit scattered and sometimes the links are a bit circular.
 
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