Brake questions!

Paul H

Fearless OOS Poser
#21
Not sure if you are able to but have you considered just larger rotors and caliper spacers? If you don't have money spend less, but I'm of the camp buy once cry once.
To me.... it would make sense that moving to a larger rotor will increase bite, but I have also been told that it improved modulation on the M8020
I guess its bit of a contradiction? Perhaps my logic makes no sense? IDK....
 
#22
If you upgrade 8020 is more than you need , but if you really want I could sell you a set I just warn against it plus way overkill.
Yeah it would definitely be cost effective to get some good rotors maybe 203mm and make sure its bleed and working properly to make sure I still want to upgrade because they will still work with the 8020's if i do get them.

How much would you want for the set?
 
#23
To me.... it would make sense that moving to a larger rotor will increase bite, but I have also been told that it improved modulation on the M8020
I guess its bit of a contradiction? Perhaps my logic makes no sense? IDK....
Modulation would improve because more torque is available. Also increased bite and there would be less fade in bite during a ride since a larger rotor would disperse heat better, doubt that its happening but if he is boiling his brake fluid it would help prevent that from happening so he would be more similar pressure from the beginning to the end of a ride.
 

Paul H

Fearless OOS Poser
#24
Yeah it would definitely be cost effective to get some good rotors maybe 203mm and make sure its bleed and working properly to make sure I still want to upgrade because they will still work with the 8020's if i do get them.
If you go bigger rotors... make sure you also get the correct adaptors/mounts
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
#25
Whatever you do, the brakes still need bleeding or they won't work. I would first do that and see if that is sufficient to improve the braking to your liking. Shimano, SRAM and Magura will always make sure there's a newer-er kit for you to covet, there's always time to improve...
 

BPaze

Well-Known Member
#26
To me.... it would make sense that moving to a larger rotor will increase bite, but I have also been told that it improved modulation on the M8020
I guess its bit of a contradiction? Perhaps my logic makes no sense? IDK....
I can confirm with 203 you get better modulation

Yeah it would definitely be cost effective to get some good rotors maybe 203mm and make sure its bleed and working properly to make sure I still want to upgrade because they will still work with the 8020's if i do get them.

How much would you want for the set?
I got back to you on PM
 

pkovo

Well-Known Member
#27
Whatever you do, the brakes still need bleeding or they won't work. I would first do that and see if that is sufficient to improve the braking to your liking. Shimano, SRAM and Magura will always make sure there's a newer-er kit for you to covet, there's always time to improve...
I agree with this 100%. Bleed the brakes well and then see how they feel before you buy anything new. You might find that's all you need to be happy with them.
 
#30
Well today I got to looking at my brakes I bled them and adjusted the lever and for sure they are better. I'm still on the fence about the upgrade , on one hand I for sure agree that I dont NEED them but that doesnt stop me from wanting them. I'm talking to @BPaze about checking out a set he has. While I was going over my bike today I found that I need a new bottom bracket and then got to thinking about how far my money could go just doing some little things to my bike like new bars with some more rise. New bb . New rotors and pads instead of all new brakes maybe 203mm? New grips . All of that started to make more sense than overkill brakes. So we will see how things go
 
#31
Well today I got to looking at my brakes I bled them and adjusted the lever and for sure they are better. I'm still on the fence about the upgrade , on one hand I for sure agree that I dont NEED them but that doesnt stop me from wanting them. I'm talking to @BPaze about checking out a set he has. While I was going over my bike today I found that I need a new bottom bracket and then got to thinking about how far my money could go just doing some little things to my bike like new bars with some more rise. New bb . New rotors and pads instead of all new brakes maybe 203mm? New grips . All of that started to make more sense than overkill brakes. So we will see how things go
I know how you feel I was going to order some stuff for my last month but it didn't make sense for different reasons so I picked up a new frame, once I get wheels and a fork I'll move most things over and return this bike to stock. The want I have on my current bike is best suited on my new frame.
 

02camaro

Well-Known Member
#32
what kind of bike is this? how heavy are you? for example you shouldnt need a 203/200 rotor on a xc hardtail if you weigh 140lbs. i would say a 180mm is max for a trail bike that doesn't see downhill duty. also have to consider what adapters are available for your fork/frame. good 180 front and 160 rear rotors should be fine for everything you can pedal, if that doesnt fit the bill then upgrade the calipers and levers. you dont want to have so much brakeing power you are constantly skidding or getting your weight tossed around going into corners.
 

BPaze

Well-Known Member
#33
I know how you feel I was going to order some stuff for my last month but it didn't make sense for different reasons so I picked up a new frame, once I get wheels and a fork I'll move most things over and return this bike to stock. The want I have on my current bike is best suited on my new frame.
Do tell what frame and BTW I do have 2 extra forks and a spare wheel set if your interested. I practically have a spare bike
 

BPaze

Well-Known Member
#35
Hey I was told to play within the lines let's keep this on topic lol
Hey I have kept this on point and tbh I have recently done just about every upgrade he mentions recently so if OP has any questions I have done it all and brakes were prob the least impactful. Only thing original left on my bike are crank and bb, but bb was cleaned and refreshed after last years wet conditions
 
#36
@02camaro Its a hardtail 27.5+ I weight about 180lbs . It's already got 180mm front and rear rotors I'm just afraid of spending money getting better 180mm rotors and then feeling the same way about them as I do now. The 203mm scares me tho because I feel like it's bigger and more vulnerable sticking out waiting to get smashed and broke on the trail
 
#37
@02camaro Its a hardtail 27.5+ I weight about 180lbs . It's already got 180mm front and rear rotors I'm just afraid of spending money getting better 180mm rotors and then feeling the same way about them as I do now. The 203mm scares me tho because I feel like it's bigger and more vulnerable sticking out waiting to get smashed and broke on the trail
It's about 1/5 bigger in surface area but it's still a small hit zone vs the rest of your bike. I'd be more worried about warped rotors over hitting it on something.

FYI I've got 160s I bend them once a month transporting my bike around since I pay it down in the back of my car. I down play everything so take it with a grain of salt but it's no big deal.

 

02camaro

Well-Known Member
#39
i weigh the same as you and run 180/160 on my xc/trail bike xt m8000 and run metallic pads and they are plenty. i accidentally ordered replacement pads that were resin and they felt like the rotors were glazed over and had brakes no bite at all. switched back to metallic and sweet stopping power.

go with metallic pads and and ICE rotors to dissipate some heat and be happy. unfortunately those brakes wont accept the finned ICE pads shimano makes. if not then upgrade the brake system itself. the rotors you will be able reuse if you upgrade and the pads are cheap so its not that big of a loss.