A/C repair and replacement

Blair

Well-Known Member
AC dude is supposed to finish the job at my place tomorrow morning. With rain in the forecast, I'm going to go with a 25% chance he shows. Though I haven't paid him on his previous two invoices yet, so maybe he'll be more motivated than usual.

Are any of you guys doing anything to try to prevent mice or chipmunk damage? Mothballs? Poison?
Poison and glue traps for mice. Haven't had chipmunk issues. All in crawl spaces and drop ceilings so no chance of kid or dog contact. I just leave the stuff out there, catch one every 6 months. Oh and this is inside obviously, not sure if you were asking about outside condenser.
 

jackx

Well-Known Member
Just got 2 new outside compressors on Monday. Maybe could have salvaged 17 year-old units, but would have needed new wiring, contactors at the very least. They did the estimate and installation same day - throughout the rain Monday afternoon and evening. Upgraded refrigerant from R22 to R407C. Haven't had the A/C working for a couple of years so will be nice to have if we get a heat wave.

AC dude is supposed to finish the job at my place tomorrow morning. With rain in the forecast, I'm going to go with a 25% chance he shows. Though I haven't paid him on his previous two invoices yet, so maybe he'll be more motivated than usual.

Are any of you guys doing anything to try to prevent mice or chipmunk damage? Mothballs? Poison?

Old compressors were trashed by mice living in wiring compartment in colder weather. Putting pond stones around compressors (instead of mulch) and going to carpet bomb the area with multiple poison bait stations near new units.

I used to put nice covers on/around the compressors for the winters, but they probably just made the units into more hospitable mouse houses. Maybe just a piece of plywood on top with a brick will be sufficient to keep snow and ice out.
 

ChrisRU

Well-Known Member
Thanks for tips. I was talking about my outdoor units, thankfully I haven't had issues in the house yet. All three of my units have vertically oriented fans (blowing out the side) with solid tops so they make good shelter. The one I'm having fixed had the writing chewed out, the others are good but have evidence of visitors.

One is already surrounded by stone, replacing the mulch with stone by the others is already on the list.
 

xc62701

Well-Known Member
Alright well my blower motor is shot and the system is seriously dated. It's the original system from who knows when. So we are looking at replacing instead of patching an old underpowered system. Does anybody have a recommendation of a brand we should look into? I know trane is a well known. Rand but probably one of the most expensive. Thoughts?
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
Alright well my blower motor is shot and the system is seriously dated. It's the original system from who knows when. So we are looking at replacing instead of patching an old underpowered system. Does anybody have a recommendation of a brand we should look into? I know trane is a well known. Rand but probably one of the most expensive. Thoughts?

lenox - most expensive
rheem - middle, but good.

they should pay your for recovering the r22 from the old system.
 

J-Dro

Well-Known Member
Last summer, I replaced the capacitor in the outdoor compressor because the compressor was not starting. $12 repair, yay!

Now I'm having a different problem. The outdoor fan will not shut off when the compressor shuts off, In other words, the AC system is basically functioning OK, except the outdoor fan runs continuously, even if I shut off the AC at the thermostat. Could this be another capacitor issue? I know those caps are dual units, with one side controlling the compressor and the other side controlling the fan. Anyone have experience with this problem?
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
Last summer, I replaced the capacitor in the outdoor compressor because the compressor was not starting. $12 repair, yay!

Now I'm having a different problem. The outdoor fan will not shut off when the compressor shuts off, In other words, the AC system is basically functioning OK, except the outdoor fan runs continuously, even if I shut off the AC at the thermostat. Could this be another capacitor issue? I know those caps are dual units, with one side controlling the compressor and the other side controlling the fan. Anyone have experience with this problem?

pull the yellow wire (or white or RC) from your thermostat - if it stops it is the thermostat.
if it keeps going, disconnect the low voltage wires at the compressor, if it stops, i don't know what to tell you, other than there is a short to make the circuit.
otherwise it sounds like the contactor is stuck?

i did a capacitor two years ago. was very happy about that fix not costing $$$$
 

xc62701

Well-Known Member
lenox - most expensive
rheem - middle, but good.

they should pay your for recovering the r22 from the old system.
Good to know. On the bright side the repair guys is from Harmony Cooling and Heating which we had a great relationship with when they put a ductless a/c in last year. They didn't try to oversell us and did a great job with that unit. I'm dealing with the same guys for this one so hopefully we will have similar results.
 

jnos

Well-Known Member
On the bright side the repair guys is from Harmony Cooling and Heating which we had a great relationship with when they put a ductless a/c in last year.

Do you mind sharing the unit they put in and what they charged with installation?
 

Bike N Gear

Shop: Bike N Gear
Shop Keep
Last summer, I replaced the capacitor in the outdoor compressor because the compressor was not starting. $12 repair, yay!

Did that at the shop last week. I was glad with the $189 bill. Even happier that they showed up about 20 minutes after I called on a 85 degree day.
 

xc62701

Well-Known Member
Do you mind sharing the unit they put in and what they charged with installation?
Sure I'm going to see those numbers and my options tomorrow. The guy I spoke with today told me my condenser unit is not undersized - which I thought it would be. And that all of my flexible lines are outdated and need replacement. So those prices are coming tomorrow. Condenser and air handler replacement in one price and then trunk line and flexible line replacement price next.

They said they could have it all done in 2 days and within 2 weeks if we figure everything out. No pressure so far for anything out of the ordinary. My system is old as F:mad:$ so I can't really argue with any of the logic.
 

xc62701

Well-Known Member
Do you mind sharing the unit they put in and what they charged with installation?

4 ton 15.5 seer York unit almost $8900 to replace condenser and air handler. Another $3300 to replace my duct lines. Yikes I thought I could get everything done for $7k at most.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
4 ton 15.5 seer York unit almost $8900 to replace condenser and air handler. Another $3300 to replace my duct lines. Yikes I thought I could get everything done for $7k at most.

$3300 for ?
new copper feeds? or new insulated duct work? both?
they can clean and pressure test the current copper lines. this happens while they are installing the new air handler/compressor. so doesn't take any real additional time.

jeez.

if you don't have insulated ductwork - yeah, it is a pain, but worth it from an energy pov.
 

xc62701

Well-Known Member
$3300 for ?
new copper feeds? or new insulated duct work? both?
they can clean and pressure test the current copper lines. this happens while they are installing the new air handler/compressor. so doesn't take any real additional time.

jeez.

if you don't have insulated ductwork - yeah, it is a pain, but worth it from an energy pov.
That's to replace the main trunk line that is just open fiberglass insulation on the inside and the rest of the flexible insilulated duct lines that are the old insulation standard. 4.2? The new standard is 8 supposedly.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
That's to replace the main trunk line that is just open fiberglass insulation on the inside and the rest of the flexible insilulated duct lines that are the old insulation standard. 4.2? The new standard is 8 supposedly.

insert sound of sucking noise.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
I can understand that being a bit of a salespitch, but if it's efficient enough to save us money for the next 20 years then it's worth it.

tru. it just seems like much coin for the work done.....
 

jnos

Well-Known Member
That's to replace the main trunk line that is just open fiberglass insulation on the inside and the rest of the flexible insilulated duct lines that are the old insulation standard. 4.2? The new standard is 8 supposedly.
4 tons? Did they do a Manual J? Also, if they are redoing ducts, did they perform a Manual D?
 
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