headset woes

the schwartz

Well-Known Member
Getting a recurring headset loooooseness on my new-to-me cross bike.

i've tried resetting it numerous times and it won't hold. not sure if i'm missing something or if it actually needs to be replaced. i am (at least) loosening the pinch bolts, loosening the stem bolt, then tightening that, then the pinch bolts after, so that's the correct procedure as far as i know.

pictures to follow - the dust cap that sits directly above the steering tube is not seating 100% so that's my first suspect, but I don't know well enough to say that's it. Hopefully the hive mind can help me solve this without buying new parts.
 

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Guessing the star nut (or compression plug if it's a carbon steerer) isn't set in deep enough.
If it's not, doing the adjustment properly (like you are) won't ever matter.

Try checking the depth and setting it deeper into the steerer if need be.

Oddly this happened on my cross bike when it was new. Maybe this is why people hate cyclocross.
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
make sure the crown race is compatible with the headset, just because it fits doesn't mean works.
had the same problem using a King HS with some other brand race
 

w_b

Well-Known Member
I had a frame that needed a lil gloop on the top press or inevitably it would eventually thunk. I used 290 (sparingly) between spotless surfaces and never looked back. Came right back out with the tool when needed, too. YMMV
 

rottin'

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Totally thought different headset woes when I saw the thread...

122bndt.jpg
 

Magic

Formerly 1sh0t1b33r
Team MTBNJ Halter's
You might need another thin spacer.
This.

I thought my headset was gone on one of my mtb's in the past until I realized that the headset cap was bottoming out on the steerer because of its design. Added another headset spacer and fixed. Give it a shot and good luck!
 

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
Do yourself a favor and visit your (good) local bike shop. Almost every bike that has an integrated/ZS headset comes with headset shims, so the supply is plentiful. No shipping, and no (real) worry about the shim getting damaged in shipping.
 

Juggernaut

Master of the Metaphor
As already stated in other ways above.... the most likely scenarios is not being able to properly apply the tension needed, the various headset bearings and shields are not seated properly or the crown race on the fork is not installed properly.

Depending in the underside top cap shape, you may need a larger gap than you'd expect to prevent the top cap from coming in contact with either the compression plug (carbon steerer tube) or star nut (metal steerer tube). I know it says 2-3 mm but some need close to 5mm+ clearance.

Every time you uncompress (is that a word?) the headset, usually to add/remove spacer(s) or swap stems you run the risk of a bearing, retaining clip/washer, race, dust shield...etc. going all caddywhompus. Disassemble and reassemble is the course.

Crown race on the fork is a tough one. If the first two fixes don't do it... bring it to a shop. Not worth damaging the fork trying to fix a problem that may or may not exist.


Good luck.

Dan
 

the schwartz

Well-Known Member
ok.
quick update with some more background info. i haven't tried fixing or changing anything yet, but:

the first thing i did (being uneducated and impulsive) was removed the thinnest spacer, thinking to myself, "hrrm... it looks like there is too much room between the top of this spacer cap and the top of the steerer tube. let's bring them closer."
i've since replaced it so it's back to its original.
it's a carbon fork but i don't think a carbon steerer.
i'll check the star nut to see if i can get it deeper in - do i just tap it down with an awl or something to set it further in?
 

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Okay, if you removed a spacer and then problems happened, it's probably that.
Should have 3-5mm of spacers above the top of the steerer. If it's a micro spacer on top and it's floating, swap the order around and put a larger one on top.
You should have gap, but the top spacer should be in contact with the steerer.

If you do have that gap, and the headset cap is still not seating flush to your spacers, then maybe it's the starnut. Then yeah, you want to set it in evenly. And carefully as noted by @w_b
There are tools and other ways of doing it, but you want to be careful in setting it properly. Even if it is just for preload.
 
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