Sram xo1 gxp crank install fail

THATmanMANNY

THATmanMANNY

Well-Known Member
Probably the biggest bike wrenching fail and I build a lot of my bikes.

Thought it was just stuck a little like norm and just need some taps to get it in. Knocked the bearing out. It was lined up. Looked at it again. The spindle side near the end of the non drivr side definitely has an end that wont pass through the bearing/cup.

My BB size is 73mm
I did buy a gxp crankset. At least the box says so.
 
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THATmanMANNY

THATmanMANNY

Well-Known Member
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Pictures
 
gtluke

gtluke

The Moped
That's weird. The non drive side bearing id is smaller (than drive side/shimano), but it's been the same size forever.
 
C

CycleBoy

Sussex Bike and Sport
Shop Keep
that wavy washer that is stuck in the bearing is a compression washer. Pretty sure on those cranks that it should be on the drive side against the spyder. You should have dust seals between the bearings and the crank on each side. One is stepped down to 22 mm for the non drive side. Did they come with them?
 
gtluke

gtluke

The Moped
Wait, do you have enough spacers in there? I don't see any so it's possible you need spacers behind the bearings. Maybe no spacers allowed the larger taper to f up your bearing.
 
THATmanMANNY

THATmanMANNY

Well-Known Member
There was a dust cap on there but isn't pictured.
Pretty sure I didn't screw up mounting driveside/nondrive. Can't really do that but.

per instructions and my knowledge 73mm doesn't need spacers but maybe I f'd up?
 
qclabrat

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
I'm doing a similar build and been doing more research after reading this thread.
Here's something I found on roadbikereview which seems to be your issue:

If the OP were asking about Energy or Gossamer cranksets, then I would agree. Unfortunately as someone who has been there and tried to do that with K-Force Light & SRM, the spindle diameter of FSA's 'Light' cranksets are .2mm-.3mm larger than Shimano Hollowtech are not compatible. Of course you can disregard the warning and give it a try, but you will quickly find whether MegaExo or BB86 bottom bracket, the larger diameter spindle will bind and applying more force (i.e. rubber mallet) will simply cause the inner bearing race of the drive side bearing to deform as well as push the non-drive side bearing out of the bottom bracket. Finally, Shimano Hollowtech bearings are 7mm wide while the FSA bottom brackets specified for use with the 'light' cranksets have 6mm wide bearings which provide the clearance required for use of the wave spring washer to maintain proper preload.

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/co...t-megaexo-shimano-bb-mixing-parts-318740.html
 
qclabrat

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
CycleBoy said:
that wavy washer that is stuck in the bearing is a compression washer. Pretty sure on those cranks that it should be on the drive side against the spyder. You should have dust seals between the bearings and the crank on each side. One is stepped down to 22 mm for the non drive side. Did they come with them?
Click to expand...

Not sure that's correct, I've always been told it's on the non-drive side and does not get torqued down all the way.
 
THATmanMANNY

THATmanMANNY

Well-Known Member
Alex, I just bailed and left everything as pictured and went to putting on new chains on other bikes I actually ride ha

I'm using a SRAM GXP crank and SRAM GXP 68/73 team bottom bracket so I don't think that thread from roadbikereview helps me. Not doing mismatched brands.
 
C

CycleBoy

Sussex Bike and Sport
Shop Keep
If your bike isn't a true 73mm bb (frame tolerances could be off, especially carbon frames), you may need little shims on the drive side between wavy washer and dust seal. Wheels Manufacturing make them, and Chris King has even thinner ones typically used on Chris King BBS, but can be used on any 24mm spindle crank when nec.
 
THATmanMANNY

THATmanMANNY

Well-Known Member
CycleBoy said:
If your bike isn't a true 73mm bb (frame tolerances could be off, especially carbon frames), you may need little shims on the drive side between wavy washer and dust seal. Wheels Manufacturing make them, and Chris King has even thinner ones typically used on Chris King BBS, but can be used on any 24mm spindle crank when nec.
Click to expand...

that's what I'm afraid of. That would blow. Im surprised if that is the case in this day and age.

I hope i didnt fuck up the frame. I gave it some solid whacks.

hopefully ill have some time to take a closer look this weekend
 
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J-Dro

J-Dro

Well-Known Member
THATmanMANNY said:
that's what I'm afraid of. That would blow. Im surprised if that is the case in this day and age.

I hope i didnt fuck up the frame. I gave it some solid whacks.

hopefully ill have some time to take a closer look this weekend
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure that I have a few of those drive side shims laying around if you want to try them.
 
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