Another help me build a FS bike thread :)

[Pampa]

So, I have the frame and all the parts, except the wheelset are on hand. I started putting this thing together a couple of days ago and quickly realized this is going to be a tough one for me. I've built several frames before but no FS, no remotes and no hydraulic brakes.

 

[Pampa]

Some progress today:

When I took the saddle off the other bike I notice the carbon rails were cracked. The crack ends up well inside the clamps so I just put a bit of Gorilla tape and I think it will be fine.

Lots of dents on the carbon crank arm but no cracks. I don't like the crank boots but might put them on now just in case.

The hoses of the brakes are too long and cutting them will be a mini-project in itself since it involves bleeding the brakes too. The coil of the hoses (brakes come pre-bled coiled in a little box) is very difficult to get out too. I'm missing how easy were the BB7's to install and adjust, but I know these brakes are much better...

 

[jShort]

Some progress today:

View attachment 45507

When I took the saddle off the other bike I notice the carbon rails were cracked. The crack ends up well inside the clamps so I just put a bit of Gorilla tape and I think it will be fine.
View attachment 45508

Lots of dents on the carbon crank arm but no cracks. I don't like the crank boots but might put them on now just in case.
View attachment 45509

The hoses of the brakes are too long and cutting them will be a mini-project in itself since it involves bleeding the brakes too. The coil of the hoses (brakes come pre-bled coiled in a little box) is very difficult to get out too. I'm missing how easy were the BB7's to install and adjust, but I know these brakes are much better...

View attachment 45510

Come on man....


Get a new seat. 2 or 3 races this year I saw someone standing and pedaling because their seat broke. Don't be that guy.

Get the crank arm boots. They're like 5 bucks.

Cutting hoses doesn't usually require bleeding. It's super easy and most brakes come with another olive.

 

[Pampa]

Come on man....


Get a new seat. 2 or 3 races this year I saw someone standing and pedaling because their seat broke. Don't be that guy.

Get the crank arm boots. They're like 5 bucks.

Cutting hoses doesn't usually require bleeding. It's super easy and most brakes come with another olive.

New saddle is on my shopping list

I have 3 pairs of crank boots, I just didn't want to put them b/c I didn't like them... However, this RF crankset is the oldest one I have and the more abused so yes, time to give it some protection before I crack it in two.

According to SRAM you have to bleed them after cutting the hose (SRAM Adjusting brake hose length) but I guess you can avoid it if you do it carefully. I couldn't find the procedure for Level Ultimate. Their construction seems different than the other models. The hose goes directly into the lever body - only screws I see seem to be cap the reservoir so I'm hesitant to unscrew those. I'm going to explore this tomorrow...

 

[Dave Taylor]

Some progress today:

View attachment 45507

When I took the saddle off the other bike I notice the carbon rails were cracked. The crack ends up well inside the clamps so I just put a bit of Gorilla tape and I think it will be fine.
View attachment 45508

Lots of dents on the carbon crank arm but no cracks. I don't like the crank boots but might put them on now just in case.
View attachment 45509

The hoses of the brakes are too long and cutting them will be a mini-project in itself since it involves bleeding the brakes too. The coil of the hoses (brakes come pre-bled coiled in a little box) is very difficult to get out too. I'm missing how easy were the BB7's to install and adjust, but I know these brakes are much better...

View attachment 45510

I had the crank boots on and cracked my race face next crank on saturday.

 

[Dave Taylor]

Come on man....


Get a new seat. 2 or 3 races this year I saw someone standing and pedaling because their seat broke. Don't be that guy.

Get the crank arm boots. They're like 5 bucks.

Cutting hoses doesn't usually require bleeding. It's super easy and most brakes come with another olive.

I have extras of those boots if he wants them. How do you disconnect the lines and not need to rebleed?

 

[alex_k]

I have extras of those boots if he wants them. How do you disconnect the lines and not need to rebleed?

1) point the lever hose nut up
2) cut the hose 2'' from the nut (I assume you need to remove more than 2''), make sure both sides of the hose pointed up
3) remove the nut carefully, let fluid (from 2'' hose piece) drain in the hole
4) make final cut and install the fitting
5) connect the hose and level

try do no lose fluid at any step

 

[Pampa]

I found the service manual for the Level Ultimate and TLM here. At least now I know all the parts of the lever and brake. With this and the Pro bleed kit I feel good about giving this a try.

 

[Pampa]

Anyone has any tricks to remove the crank arm of a RF NEXT SL crankset? Every time I need to take it out it's impossible to do on the stand. Normally I jump on the bike and do a few pedal strokes while braking a little. This loosens the arm.

This time I already removed the RD and cassette from the "donor" bike so I can't do that. I tried PB blaster and tapping the crankset and ring with a hammer but it doesn't move...

 

[alex_k]

I found the service manual for the Level Ultimate and TLM here. At least now I know all the parts of the lever and brake. With this and the Pro bleed kit I feel good about giving this a try.

that is not really helpful for cutting the line. I'd rather look at the their video and skip to the lever bleeding 4:12

 

[Juggernaut]

Anyone has any tricks to remove the crank arm of a RF NEXT SL crankset? Every time I need to take it out it's impossible to do on the stand. Normally I jump on the bike and do a few pedal strokes while braking a little. This loosens the arm.

This time I already removed the RD and cassette from the "donor" bike so I can't do that. I tried PB blaster and tapping the crankset and ring with a hammer but it doesn't move...

I only do it on the ground cuz I'm afraid I'll snap the seat post or frame. I insert the hex key with the crank arm parallel to the ground, I hold the hex key still and step on the crank arm. I've never had an issue doing this.

 

[Pampa]

I only do it on the ground cuz I'm afraid I'll snap the seat post or frame. I insert the hex key with the crank arm parallel to the ground, I hold the hex key still and step on the crank arm. I've never had an issue doing this.

I can't pull on anything--still recovering from shoulder surgery--but I did a few pedal strokes while leaning against a wall and that did the trick. Next challenge was to remove the small screw that tightens the preload collar on the crank spindle. I rounded the head of that screw a long time ago and could never get it out but it didn't matter before because I was re-installing the crankset on the same bike.

I drilled the head and hammered in a star key (plus a little of the magic PB) and 2 for 2 this evening.

 

[Dave Taylor]

5/8" allen socket and 1/2" ratchet...loosen outer cap and then use 8mm allen to remove arm with the "puller" inser...remover cap, then puller and alternate sides. Should be less than 10 minutes to swap cranks on two bikes.

 

[Ryan.P]

I found the service manual for the Level Ultimate and TLM here. At least now I know all the parts of the lever and brake. With this and the Pro bleed kit I feel good about giving this a try.

Super easy to do , just cut and bleed now so in the future say before a race if needing a bleed or service it will only take minutes and you will be familiar with the process

 

[Dave Taylor]

Super easy to do , just cut and bleed now so in the future say before a race if needing a bleed or service it will only take minutes and you will be familiar with the process

I think you need the thing a majig too?

 

[Pampa]

Super easy to do , just cut and bleed now so in the future say before a race if needing a bleed or service it will only take minutes and you will be familiar with the process

I'll try the method above for trying not to have to bleed the brakes after shortening the hoses, and I'll bleed them also just to be sure there's no air in the lines and to learn the process - I already got the bleeding kit anyway... I found a video that shows the process for the Level brakes: SRAM MTB Guide Series, Level Ultimate, and Level TLM Hydraulic Brake Bleed.

I think you need the thing a majig too?

I think so but it's a bit confusing. In this video (SRAM Stealth-a-majig Hose Shortening, 0:30 to 0:45) they say the brakes that use the stealth-a-majig have that written on the hose exit of the brake lever and they show the models. Level is not mentioned there and I couldn't find any writing on the lever that says that. However, the spare metal insert that came with my brakes is exactly like the stealth-a-majig part so I'm guessing that's what I need to use. The little olive that came with my parts is not read though, it's silver. Net, it's confusing but I'll just use what came with my brakes

 

[Pampa]

Some more stuff done over the weekend. The 42T cog in my cassette was very worn out so I replaced it with a new one.

I also got the wheelset, installed the crankset and the shifter & RD.

 

[Pampa]

And this week I finished installing and adjusting the drive train, rear shock remote, tires & fork. Basically the only thing left is shortening the brake hoses and installing those, and then tuning the fork and shock. Now it looks like a bike!

 

[Pampa]

and it's alive! Today I shortened the brake hoses and now the bike is rideable. I cut the front cable a tad too short (forgot to take into account about 15mm of cable that go into the level from the boot edge). I haven't bled them yet. The front brake doesn't seem to need it (but I'll still do it), and the rear brake does but still brakes well so tomorrow I'm OK for a test ride.

I either have to put a longer shifter cable & housing, or shorten the rear brake cable a bit so both cables have the same bend by the rear shock, but that's for later.