The DIY thread - DIYourself

a psl or lvl installed correctly won't move. you might need to pocket screw the top on all 4 sides rather than toe nail, but the suckers are rock solid.
you said you were talking about a 6" wall? so a 4x6 psl post - it is a monster! if it is sheathed. and the door hooks to that, then glue the sheathing.

so the posts are a fixed cost in your window opening - that leaves the two openings to work with.
i again mention sliders, as they may offer you an option of filling the whole space (a double hung only opens 50% - so do sliders)


now - think of the "weight" of the posts (weight meaning some sort of perceived strength based on their width
- are you going to have equal weight on the far sides? do you care?
what about the weight between mulled sets?
will you notice if the are not the same - absolutely, it will be annoying if they are close -but could work if they are intentionally large/small.

get the andersen with the half screens.
 
fidodie said:
a psl or lvl installed correctly won't move. you might need to pocket screw the top on all 4 sides rather than toe nail, but the suckers are rock solid.
you said you were talking about a 6" wall? so a 4x6 psl post - it is a monster! if it is sheathed. and the door hooks to that, then glue the sheathing.

so the posts are a fixed cost in your window opening - that leaves the two openings to work with.
i again mention sliders, as they may offer you an option of filling the whole space (a double hung only opens 50% - so do sliders)


now - think of the "weight" of the posts (weight meaning some sort of perceived strength based on their width
- are you going to have equal weight on the far sides? do you care?
what about the weight between mulled sets?
will you notice if the are not the same - absolutely, it will be annoying if they are close -but could work if they are intentionally large/small.

get the andersen with the half screens.
Click to expand...
Not a single 4x6, it would be a single 2x6 on each side of the door. That kinda worries me for lateral movement. Yeah I was thinking the same thing, pocket screws or a metal bracket and it might just stay.
Not that I"m doing an inspection, but would a single 2x6 pass inspection on each side of the door? what if it's an LVL. hmmm

I dunno, I don't think I'll like the sliders. I kinda like more windows open in a horizontal plane than having the vertical opening when I crack open a slider.
 
gtluke said:
Not a single 4x6, it would be a single 2x6 on each side of the door. That kinda worries me for lateral movement. Yeah I was thinking the same thing, pocket screws or a metal bracket and it might just stay.
Not that I"m doing an inspection, but would a single 2x6 pass inspection on each side of the door? what if it's an LVL. hmmm

I dunno, I don't think I'll like the sliders. I kinda like more windows open in a horizontal plane than having the vertical opening when I crack open a slider.
Click to expand...

your technical drawing calls for 4- 1x6 on each side (you noted before) - nominal is 7/8" - meaning 3.5" of lumber on each side of the door. do not change this to make
the windows fit!

do you need to recover 1" - move to a 28" back door? that just adds some thicker casing detail on the door by the brick.

LK_Set1_20120828_0006-3-2072x950.jpg


as an aside, when i looked at the picture of the back, i have never seen bricks laid on face to create a sill. if you need bricks, let me know. i have a couple thousand that match your house.

i'm scared to ask - what did they want for custom sizing?

the 400 series has a window requiring 3'6" rough opening - this is closer.

i see your point with the slider - i'm not sure which is worse, the two vertical lines, or two horizontal.....
 
fidodie said:
your technical drawing calls for 4- 1x6 on each side (you noted before) - nominal is 7/8" - meaning 3.5" of lumber on each side of the door. do not change this to make
the windows fit!

do you need to recover 1" - move to a 28" back door? that just adds some thicker casing detail on the door by the brick.

LK_Set1_20120828_0006-3-2072x950.jpg


as an aside, when i looked at the picture of the back, i have never seen bricks laid on face to create a sill. if you need bricks, let me know. i have a couple thousand that match your house.

i'm scared to ask - what did they want for custom sizing?

the 400 series has a window requiring 3'6" rough opening - this is closer.

i see your point with the slider - i'm not sure which is worse, the two vertical lines, or two horizontal.....
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm going to move those 4 1x6's out a bit to fit the 3' door. My 30" door sucks. Going 1" narrow I think nails it. I listed the pricing above, in Anderson it's only like $150 per window or something for custom, not horrible. I'm giving up on the idea of using a single 2x6 LVL so I can fit the catalog size.

Yes, I need bricks! I need to stop by soon. I took down some exterior brick facing and half the bricks are garbage from that. I need a bunch more.

Andersen A series, $4450.68 for the windows factory mulled (this is the custom size so I can fit 2 2x6's next to the door.)
And for the door $1662.17

Marvin for the windows (not mulled) $7,335.16
And for the door $5,667.26
 
i'm confused now. so don't look at the tech drawing. use your new drawing. ok,

bricks are behind barn - pull car up, help yourself. grab a fig too.
maybe after hippo cx?

heading to bed.
 
fidodie said:
i'm confused now. so don't look at the tech drawing. use your new drawing. ok,

bricks are behind barn - pull car up, help yourself. grab a fig too.
maybe after hippo cx?

heading to bed.
Click to expand...

I did a new drawing. for the custom sized 3'7"x5'8" andersens
I'm dead on to the existing window overall width. There is about 1/4" on each side now to the outside framing 2x4, so in theory, there will be the same 1/4" gap when I"m done. perfect for filling with spray foam. I left myself 1/2" gap between the door support and the windows and left the full 3'1" RO for the door.
Wait do I have to account for a door frame? No, that's accounted for in the 3'1" RO that I'm given in the catalog. I think.
Height I'm god damn close too. I'm shorter by 1/16" from existing. But the bottom of my current windows is just laying on that sill plate thing with no gap. I drilled through the window and at the top I have probably the same 1/4" of room as the sides. But I would take out that 1" sill plate (strange, it actually measures out exactly 1). I hope there is a 2x4 under that.
So I'm really close or slightly under the existing window sizes. So I should be good. I'm just concerned that being only 1/4" gap on the left and right side isn't enough. If I miscalculated I"m F'd. Anything less than 1/4" I probably will have a hard time filling with spray foam.

Now that I'm "happy" with my sizing, do I go with Marvin or Andersen. ARG.
 
the god damn windows don't align at the top. And the door knob don't align with the sash. This will annoy me ;)
 
If I just read that right.
1/16 on top is a disaster.
You need well over 1/2 just for expansion and snow load.
 
a 30" door requires a 32+" RO. assuming 3/4" frame - the door spec should call out the rough opening -

the window sill should be angled (??), so depending on where you drill the hole, you'll get a different clearance.
disaster if sill ends up below brick level
might be a good project to take out a course of bricks, and put those suckers on edge, lowering your brick height by about 1"
it goes in after the windows are installed, so that solves your flange dilemma too

pull inside bottom trim, and see what is going on. looks like you are almost there - and it is only $$$$.....

ill assume (bad) it is an in-swing door, so there can be an exterior screen door ?
 
1/4" is tight IMO, that's barely an ass hair of wiggle room. Have you checked that everything is square to make sure that you're dealing with the same clearance all the way around? And yes as Pat said standard RO for doors is + 2" which accounts for the frame.
 
Thanks @mattybfat @fidodie and @rlb
I'll pull off the interior tonight and take a peek so I know for sure what the gap is above.
The drywall guys that did my house have it so tight against the window frame that I can't even get the tape measure catch thingy in there. time to get some cutting tools out. I might just pop out the whole bottom drywall panel anyway, I'm ditching those radiators and I'll have to do a lot of drywall work to get it nice since i'll have to make up for the layers of paint at the top. So I'll be mudding anyway.
 
If its an external wall just pull all of the drywall down. It'll be easier to get a nicer finish from the tape and spackle. And you can update insulation and fill any gaps etc. with foam at that point too.
 
Okay I have 1.5" on the top. The 3/4" gap and that piece is just a filler.
On the bottom I have nothing, here's the back of that 1" sill plate. Yeah it's tapered. Is it called a sill plate? whatever it is it's tapered and 1" at the outside. So that pice comes out.
So this is good, up and down I have plenty of room and options. I like the idea of pulling out the bricks and flange nailing it.

I checked the book, the door wants a rough opening of 3'1" so I'm good there.
The only thing left is side to side spacing of the windows. On the door side I have 1/2" gap, on the opposite side I have 3/8" PLUS whatever gap is there now that I'm not factoring in. So likely about 1/2" on that side as well.


top
i-BGH72xZ-1903x1070.jpg


bottom. that's the back of the tapered sill on top of the framing.
i-PkMnqw6-X2.jpg


here's the outside of the sill, which I broke. Because I thought it was a piece of molding :)
i-BMxJDZS-1903x1070.jpg


Here's the outside wall shot of the existing gap between the existing window and framing. I'm not counting this space in my drawing because it's so little. It's like 3/16 or so.

But now I know I have 2x4 (actually 2x6) framing all the way around that I can nail to with a flanged window. I'm happy with my up and down sizing.
Side to side I realistically have one inch of spacing to play with (for each window pair)

So I think I'm good my sizing? Do I want more than that 1" I guess I could shave it down a tad more so I have an inch and a half (3/4" on each side.).

hmmm
 
If the openings are square, then 1/4 on each side is plenty.

The framing member below the window is a sill plate. The bottom of the window is a sill. Fill in pieces are called trimmers.

Glad this is moving along. Planning saves money and time.
 
If this takes as long as your bathroom, you're gonna have a bad time when it gets cold.
 
Need a recommended angle grinder for tuckpointing, I recently also saw an auto chisel, any thoughts on these?
 
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