Fizzy's Great Divide Mountain Bike Adventure - Montana

trailhead

JORBA: Wildcat/Splitrock
JORBA.ORG
Hello,

I'm Fizzy.......
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and I have three purposes in life
1) ride bikes
2) scare away Grizzly Bears
3) and make Sherri smile

I want to share with you my latest adventure that was on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR) in Montana. It started in the town of Whitefish, and over the course of 5 days, we rode 250 miles with a total elevation gain of 16,526 feet to Lincoln. It was a fully supported tour by the Adventure Cycling Association (ACA) so my people did not have to carry much or cook meals.

I rode with Sherri on her Santa Cruz Superlight 29er.
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Norm was on his Trek Superfly 100AL which had a saddle bag to carry extra clothing, a frame pack with tools and parts and a gas tank for misc stuff.
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To start the trip off right, we had a beer at the Great Northern Brewery.
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trailhead

JORBA: Wildcat/Splitrock
JORBA.ORG
7/9/16
The peoples met up at an RV park on the outskirts of Whitefish, setting up tents and getting aquainted. There were 58 of them plus staff. Most were roady type riders and tourers ages 40-70 with a few younger. Many were using rental bikes ( Kona Blasts 27.5) and never had mountain biked before. After dinner they all got the intros, procedures and reviewed the map for the next day.
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7/10/16
It was chilly, in the 50s as we headed out from Whitefish and onto the wide open Flathead River valley. To the east a big mountain range, and to the west it was wide open with mini ranches growing beans, brussel sprouts and fields going to flower.
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The mountains in the background are what we climb the next day.
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At Bigfork, we got onto a recreational trail along the Swan River which cascaded with waterfalls and rapids for miles.

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The peoples set up camp at a school, and then went into town, milling about shops of Bigfork and then a beer at the Flathead Brewery. On the way back to camp, my peeps spotted a couple on a mountain tandem, pulling a trailer, looking kinda lost. They were from Austria, following the GDMBR and were welcomed to camp with us and eat. That night a big storm came and it rained.
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trailhead

JORBA: Wildcat/Splitrock
JORBA.ORG
7/11/16
The heavy rains overnight put the test to tents and how they were set setup and the hallways of the school had a few refugees for those that leaked. They packed up the wet tents, donned rain gear and set out for Condon, on the other side of the Mission Mountains. After a repeat on the Swan River Trail, we then started an 8 mile climb and after shedding the rain gear, Sherri and I set the pace while Norm chatted it with those behind.

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After a brief water stop, there was now an equally long downhill. With the temps in 40s and misty, we put some layers back on and started the descent. There were many purple people at the bottom and it took awhile to warm back up.

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This was dense forest with only brief views but beautiful none the less. Sherri writes first verse of bear song:

"If I was a bear where would I be. ..hiding in the woods so you don't see me "

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The rain started to fall and changed the character of the roads. The next 15mi was lots of mud slinging.

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Finally back to the Swan River valley and Rt 83 with awsome views of the mountain tops poking through clouds.


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We arrived in Condon, setup camp and washed the bikes. The ACA rented the community building so we ate indoors and in addition a mobile shower trailer typically used by forest fire crews. The shower trail had like a dozen stalls on one side and on the end, sinks with hot and cold water. Norm thought it particularly neat to shave roadside as cars road by. After a few beers, the peoples retreated to the tents with a chill in the air.

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Norm

Mayor McCheese
Team MTBNJ Halter's
I am enjoying, however is there a way to teach Fizzy how to post the pics like this, so I don't need to read with my magnifying glass?

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trailhead

JORBA: Wildcat/Splitrock
JORBA.ORG
7/12/16
It was to the crow of a rooster that rose everyone from their cold dewy tents this morning. After a nice warm breakfast in the Swan Valley community center we set off south along rt83. To the west there were views of the massive snowy peaks of McDonald and Glacier.

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We road with a very nice couple from Alberta who were the same pace as us and soon turned toward Holland Lake, another famed haven for TD riders. We turn left onto a less travel path which soon gets a bit choked with scrub as it is within an old cut. This once again gets us thinking about bears, as heads twist for a sighting. We are actually on singletrack now, and tackle a short climb that makes most dismount. Then some twisty flowy track aside big pines. Wanting more of this, we take a detour to Clearwater lake. At first very rooty then turning into a carpet of pine needles. The isolation is a bit eerie, it is so quiet, as if all sound is absorbed by the bright green moss that covers everything.
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On to Richmond Pass. This is one of the longest, hardest climbs of the trip, but with good company and a new view around each corner, there is no dread. There were several switchbacks and the grade for the most part was moderate. Breaks between trees that line the road reveal long cascading waterfalls and avalanche paths from craggy peaks. The contrast between the two makes for a dizzying effect.

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We are finally rewarded for our efforts and gets nice shots from Richmond Pass.

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We now descend along the contours on a narrow trail, with many rolling grade dips. They offer the opportunity to catch some air, but the buzz of seat packs against the tires warrants moderation.

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It gets a bit too "edgy" for us, so we walk this bit.

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Snack time!
The ACA makes sure there is ample supply opportunities each day.

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A now a long...very long....yet even longer descent towards Seeley Lake.

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trailhead

JORBA: Wildcat/Splitrock
JORBA.ORG
7/14/16
Today is a big ride and we look forward to riding into the popular TD supply town of Ovando.
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We leave Seeley Lake on a forest road with nice rollers through a valley along many streams and ponds. The air is cool, and the pace fast.

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Rather suddenly, the forest opens up and we are now on open plains and crest a small hill providing a 360 degree view.

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For those that follow the Tour Divide race, Ovando is a crucial resupply stop. What makes it special is that the locals, and especially Kathy of the Blackfoot Angler Fly Shop, welcome the riders and take the time to post pictures on the bikepacking.net website. This adds a whole new dimension to following the race as we get to see the condition of the riders, weather and read some great stories.

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There are some unusual accommodations for the riders to use.

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And a Saloon!
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Will I ever travel through here again?.....I hope so.


And were are back on gentle rolling plains. The spinning is great until you hit some washboard. You try to find the smoothest line, eventually that fails, then it is out of the saddle peddling....for many miles.

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We reach the valley edge, take a brief break and climb up to Huckleberry Pass. There is no view to reward our efforts, but stop for a break.

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While initially there is a nice descent, it's not all down hill to Lincoln! The sun is high, it is dry, and we are feeling the heat. The road twists and turns down the valley and many miles go by before we reach the Basin where the town of Lincoln sits. The last few miles on the recreational trail into town is a little monotonous, but we are following a father pulling his son on a copilot. The boys head is spinning about, looking aft and his father seems determined to race us to the finish.. ..and he wins as we split ways. Tonight's accommodation is the fields of Lincoln High School.

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trailhead

JORBA: Wildcat/Splitrock
JORBA.ORG
7/15/16
Today is the last day of the tour and the ride is an out and back lollipop, over a mountain pass that is the first crossing of the continental divide in the USA for the GDMBR route.

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We start across the valley, south towards Helena on Stemple Pass road. It is wide open, with ranch lands on either side and in the distance a truck is watering down the road. We see, as it passes riders ahead of us, that the streams appear to increase, nearly soaking them. We pull over well into a field access as the truck passes, and we too nearly get doused. This gets Fizzy bubbling, but we manage to brush it off. It is a beautiful day, and we are riding bikes!

The climbing starts, and Sherri sets a wicked pace. From the handlebar Fizzy, cheers on. Norm is lagging a bit behind, still trying to wake up. We pass riders left and right and catch the drop bar guys. Soon we are at a wide open intersection and see the support truck.

After a brief stop we continue the climb. We catch a glimpse of Granite Butte lookout, and see the turn off, but time is limited today and must stick to the planned route. Stemple Pass is marked by a stockade and awesome views to the south. This is the continental divide!
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For the return leg we had the option to take the steeper, more eroded trail along Poorman creek. This is actually the designated GDMBR track. It was much steeper, with eroded sections of loose rock much like a typical woods road back home. Had we climbed this direction, many would surely be pushing. Both sides of the road had been clear cut, and now new growth and wildflowers thrive.
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As we continued our descent, there were a few tourers climbing on fully loaded fat bikes. We offer sympathetic waves, Norm looks back with envy.

We pass the ride sweep and apparently only a few chose the more technical route and we are last. We reach stemple road and pick up the pace as we head back to Lincoln.

Upon reaching the watered section, the road is slick and covered in mud and as we emerge back at the school, bikes and kits are covered in mud. We later learn this was brine water and so many drive trains are ruined.

We wash off bikes, pack up camp and board a bus back for Whitefish. The return trip takes 3 hours, and from window, we watch a review of all the terrain we traveled. It appears much bigger now. Pespective is elusive, what was far, was made small, and time passed quickly. The ride, for now, is done.

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