Car Mechanic Needed

Arwen's Mom

Mother of Dragons, Breaker of Chains
Trustworthy.
Knowledgeable.
Good.
Fair Priced.

Am being told my beloved Toyota is "losing compression" and that the correction is called a "ring job"
I know nothing about vehicles except how to drive them and fuel them up.

Well...thats only partly true. Years ago my old vehicles (70's) I could actually do minor things to them. Once computer thingies were added I gave up.

Any recommendations?
 

Frank

Sasquatch
Reman engine, junk yard engine, or newer vehicle. Chances are that you will not just do rings, you will need to do bearings etc. and it will turn into an engine overhaul. Just my 2 cents
 

Arwen's Mom

Mother of Dragons, Breaker of Chains
What was/is the original complaint? Year/Model/Mileage?
engine light on, ran rough, took to garage, checked codes and said was misfire and recommended tune up (wires, plugs, etc). Problem is tune up n this vehicle is quite costly ($500!!!) because of where half the plugs are located (which is why Mr AM didnt want to do it). SO got the tune up yesterday and today engine light came on again.
took back to garage, did another diagnostic and said its because its losing compression in 2 cylinders. That garage doesnt do "major" engine work and so cant help.

98 toyota mini van

hold your breath now
Mileage = 243,000

We have has it for most of its life and has been well maintained.

Mr AM says "cars dont last forever" but buying another one is a hard stretch for us right now.
 

extremedave

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
So I'm assuming they did a compression test? After the other work....which slightly sucks, but not much to do for it now. The problem could be in the upper end (valvetrain) which potentially could be cheaper, but as Frank said, it's tear down and rebuild, replace, or junkyard engine. I'm guessing it's a Sienna...that's a really tough call with that many miles. Realistically paying a shop to do the work could be $3,000-5,000. It would be well above what the vehicle itself is likely worth. Is the transmission original? How is the body and interior?

Always the possibility the first shop is incorrect, just to make life more interesting.
 

extremedave

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Do you know which cylinders were misfiring (code numbers would suffice). That engine has three coils and three wires, one coil powers two cylinders on either side of the motor. If one coil went bad it could cause the opposite cylinder it supplies to also misfire. Kinda grasping here but you never know.
 

Arwen's Mom

Mother of Dragons, Breaker of Chains
So I'm assuming they did a compression test? After the other work....which slightly sucks, but not much to do for it now. The problem could be in the upper end (valvetrain) which potentially could be cheaper, but as Frank said, it's tear down and rebuild, replace, or junkyard engine. I'm guessing it's a Sienna...that's a really tough call with that many miles. Realistically paying a shop to do the work could be $3,000-5,000. It would be well above what the vehicle itself is likely worth. Is the transmission original? How is the body and interior?

Always the possibility the first shop is incorrect, just to make life more interesting.
Trans is original
Body and interior good.
Taking it to a shop today for estimate.
Also found a garage that has a rebuilt engine and said installed is 1500 CASH
little leery of CASH only with mechs as we were royalty screwed before by this.
Rather pay more and put on card, and have receipt/warranty as well as credit card company muscle if we get screwed again (buyer protection is a good thing).

I know it may sound crazy to most, but fixing it still sounds cheaper than buying another. I hate the thought of leasing, although Hubby mentioned this a few times.

SOOOOOO, no one can recommend a TRUSTWORTHY and competent mechanic?
 

extremedave

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Do you know which cylinders were misfiring (code numbers would suffice). That engine has three coils and three wires, one coil powers two cylinders on either side of the motor. If one coil went bad it could cause the opposite cylinder it supplies to also misfire. Kinda grasping here but you never know.

Do you have this information for me?
 

Paul H

Fearless OOS Poser
You probably do not want to hear this and I apologize for possibly providing unwanted advice but it looks like your van had a full life at 17yrs old and 240k.
Personally, I think it's time to let her go. Sure, you can repair the engine but what is to say other things will not go wrong? It could end up being a money pit.
 

jnos

Well-Known Member
A&D auto in south bound brook has done me well. I usually only take my car in for big items that would take me more than a few hours. They are honest and have done work that others have refused to do out of laziness. They were very pricey when I got a quote on a head gasket rebuild, so ended up going to a Subaru dealer for that. Other than that, pricing has always been proper.
 

Arwen's Mom

Mother of Dragons, Breaker of Chains
Thanks for the recommendations.

I think the Hubby has decided its time for another car (he wants to use some of his 401k to help with a buy). Looked at 4 yesterday. Think he decided on one. I hate the thought of another car payment though and still want to keep this one and keep it running as long as possible.

Choices he found:
1. Brand new Sienna (UGH) we cant really afford new payments, so he was thinking lease but to me that seems a waste of money.
2. 2011 Sienna (hate the color)
3. 2012 Sienna (love the color but not crazy about cloth seats but monthly payments are manageable)
4. 2012 Rav4 payments more easily manageable. better on gas than a Sienna and like the idea of 4wd. my bike will still fit on the inside with a little wiggling. talked about adding a hitch and rack of course. Doing craft events would be harder as less cargo space.

After tossing around money, space, colors, gas mileage, blah blah blah we narrowed it down to #1 and #3 with a lean toward #3 as leasing still seems a waste of money. Mr AM REALLY wants a NEW car. Been talking about it for years. So last night I said. "You Choose. Its all about you this time. We get what YOU want and we will handle it like we always do." He says "I think the 2012 one. We buy a new one, the second we drive it off the lot it depreciates $10,000. The used one retains its current value longer." I have no clue about that but he wants to go look at them both again today after sleeping on it.

As for my beloved Van. Fixing seems a waste of money too. We have dumped quite a bit into it over the years, with most being the past year. Not really ready to let it go. So options there:
1. found a garage Mr AM liked but engine is $4300. Too much.
2. with vehicle purchase we keep this one and drive it till it dies then make it a lawn ornament.
3. Contact Dave and Tyler and see what they can do with it.

Any good feedback to help us feel good about our options/choices or decisions would be appreciated as I just HATE car issues.

Dave, I didnt get the codes, but I beleive he said it was cylinder #2 I will contact the garage today and see if I can get the codes for you.
 

that VW guy

Member
Have Advance Auto or Autozone scan the car for codes for FREE. Report the findings here.

It could be a simple $100 fix. Simply pulling codes does not normally lead to a trustworthy conclusion of needing piston rings. If the place you took it to originally does not do rebuilds or really any major work, I kind of doubt that they'd do a compression test.

Does the car still run rough? Does it happen under specific conditions (only when the car has not gotten to normal operating temp, only rough when at normal operating temp, rough when first taking off from a stop then clears up after a few seconds, happens only at full throttle, never happens at full throttle, runs rough no matter what, etc)?

240k is not too much milage, especially for a 90s Toyota. For whatever reason people shy away from any car that has 6 digit milage.
 
Last edited:

OddTrickStar

Well-Known Member
It's hard to say without looking at it.

To diagnose rings would require two compression tests. The second after squirting some oil in the cylinders. It would seal the rings long enough to raise compression for the test. If they did this, rings can be accurately diagnosed. Maybe ask them how they determined it was rings.

Someone who knows that model well could give a good second opinion. If everything else about the van is good, putting a rebuilt engine in it may be a good idea.
 

Arwen's Mom

Mother of Dragons, Breaker of Chains
Have Advance Auto or Autozone scan the car for codes for FREE. Report the findings here.

It could be a simple $100 fix. Simply pulling codes does not normally lead to a trustworthy conclusion of needing piston rings. If the place you took it to originally does not do rebuilds or really any major work, I kind of doubt that they'd do a compression test.

Does the car still run rough? Does it happen under specific conditions (only when the car has not gotten to normal operating temp, only rough when at normal operating temp, rough when first taking off from a stop then clears up after a few seconds, happens only at full throttle, never happens at full throttle, runs rough no matter what, etc)?
240k is not too much milage, especially for a 90s Toyota. For whatever reason people shy away from any car that has 6 digit milage.

Sorry it took so long to respond. Very long tiring weekend.
Seems to run a little better after the tune up. Smoked when weather is cold until the car would warm up. Now that its warm out, it doesn’t smoke but engine still seems to like a nice warm up period. The tune up seems to have stopped the hesitation it occasionally had while driving, but van still doesnt have that pep. Runs rough at idle and slow speeds but fine at highway speeds. During oil checks/changes oil seemed normal dirty not overly (changed faithfully every 3000 miles). Stomping on the gas causes a weird fluttering sound which is also heard sometimes at start up, smooth acceleration doesn’t seem to cause it. The mechanic (Monroe) that did the tune up said while listening to the valves it seems one valve is sticking a little and that is possibly making that sound.

Aamco did a compression test. He said it should read 218, but is reading between 150 to 175. Also said the code was p0302

Additional history: last year had an issue with oil pump. Had major work done replacing oil pump screen, etc (very expensive). Seems since then when oil is changed there are some metal filings in the oil pan (one guy said this is normal), But at idle the oil light flickers, give it gas and it goes off.

Other observations: when the car is cold, it seems to take a while to shift. Once it warms up well, it seems fine. I mention it only since it isnt the usual behavior for this van. Am told this could also be a compression issue caused by a sticking valve, or age.

Thanks again for your time :)
 

Arwen's Mom

Mother of Dragons, Breaker of Chains
It's hard to say without looking at it.

To diagnose rings would require two compression tests. The second after squirting some oil in the cylinders. It would seal the rings long enough to raise compression for the test. If they did this, rings can be accurately diagnosed. Maybe ask them how they determined it was rings.

Someone who knows that model well could give a good second opinion. If everything else about the van is good, putting a rebuilt engine in it may be a good idea.
Aamco did compression test. Van was there for couple hours. They were the ones who said the engine needs to be replaced. But so far all the estimates for that are too much $ for us right now but am thinking its an option after some other finances are tended to.
 

that VW guy

Member
Sorry it took so long to respond. Very long tiring weekend.
Seems to run a little better after the tune up. Smoked when weather is cold until the car would warm up. Now that its warm out, it doesn’t smoke but engine still seems to like a nice warm up period. The tune up seems to have stopped the hesitation it occasionally had while driving, but van still doesnt have that pep. Runs rough at idle and slow speeds but fine at highway speeds. During oil checks/changes oil seemed normal dirty not overly (changed faithfully every 3000 miles). Stomping on the gas causes a weird fluttering sound which is also heard sometimes at start up, smooth acceleration doesn’t seem to cause it. The mechanic (Monroe) that did the tune up said while listening to the valves it seems one valve is sticking a little and that is possibly making that sound.

Aamco did a compression test. He said it should read 218, but is reading between 150 to 175. Also said the code was p0302

Additional history: last year had an issue with oil pump. Had major work done replacing oil pump screen, etc (very expensive). Seems since then when oil is changed there are some metal filings in the oil pan (one guy said this is normal), But at idle the oil light flickers, give it gas and it goes off.

Other observations: when the car is cold, it seems to take a while to shift. Once it warms up well, it seems fine. I mention it only since it isnt the usual behavior for this van. Am told this could also be a compression issue caused by a sticking valve, or age.

Thanks again for your time :)
This is very good info here. The code helps a lot. P0302 means there's a misfire in cylinder 2. Check plug wires and coils for any cracks in the insulation or plastic. An easy way to check this is using a spray mist bottle on both the plug wires and coil(s). Spray them with water in a garage or in the dark and see if you can spot any arcing or sparking. If so, whatever is sparking is the culprit.

Could also be an injector on its way out, but check the electrical ignition components first.

The fluttering sound is likely the misfire.

150 is fine for a car with 250k. Don't worry about that, especially if you don't want to buy a new car quite yet.

Slow shifting when cold is normal for an auto trans car, don't worry about that one bit. Not sure if you've had the misfortune of driving a manual car in negative degree temps, but that gear oil turns into molasses until it warms up.

This is most likely a very simple and cheap fix.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
so they replaced the oil pump, and the oil light comes on??
they should put a pressure tester on in place of the sending unit, and find out if it is producing what a new pump should - annoying.

anyway, doesn't sound like it is queued up for a catastrophic failure.....
 

Arwen's Mom

Mother of Dragons, Breaker of Chains
Check plug wires and coils for any cracks in the insulation or plastic.

These were supposedly replaced with the tune up.

Thanks for all your responses.
Gonna just drive it till it dies I guess, then may do something fun with it like a donation or bonfire.
Hubby has been wanting a "new" car for awhile. Mid life crisis or something who knows. But since he lives his life "all about you" (meaning me of course) I figured it was time I lived "all about you" too (meaning him of course) so we went and picked something up. His. His decision, his choice, he decided if it was even possible for us. I dont even want to drive it. Besides, my van just fits me. Ya know?

Will continue to look at options to get mine fixed. But $ is really an issue now with a new baby (vehicle) in the house. No fatty for me this winter :(
But thats ok. Hubby is happy. He is even enjoying his biking again. Double plus for me.
Happy Hubby Happy Life....it doesnt rhyme but it works.
 
Top Bottom