Wheel build help

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
This sounds like something that sounds good on the internet but maybe not so straightforward in real life.

GLW WB

As straightforward as it sounds. Even more straightforward with a

main_IG2126177251.jpg


and not reusing nipples.
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
As straightforward as it sounds. Even more straightforward with a

main_IG2126177251.jpg


and not reusing nipples.
why does the Holy nipple driver cost twice that of the Park ND-1?
Seems like the offset is a better design, no?

1552349735674-png.89873
 

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Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
why does the Holy nipple driver cost twice that of the Park ND-1?
Seems like the offset is a better design, no?

1552349735674-png.89873

Problem Solver's is for chucking in a drill/driver. The shank is 3/8". It's not supposed to be used freehand, but you could if you really wanted to.

The center is hollow, for inserting your own cut spoke, which you can set at whatever depth you want to push the nipple off. When you are building a bunch of the same wheel, you can get it set just-so, so that when you are done driving them on all the way around, you can head straight to tensioning the wheel.

It expedites building wheels...that's all. If you know your target spoke length, and where the spoke ends will wind up, you can set the Holy Driver to push off 2-3mm before that, and it'll place you in the same place. Takes me 2 minutes, give or take, to get the 'pre-tension' phase done.
 

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
Btw, buy a Bicycle Research driver if you want the manual, non-adjustable one. Rubberized handles /suck/ if you like to keep your tools clean.
 

Steve Vai

Endurance Guy: Tolerates most of us.
why does the Holy nipple driver cost twice that of the Park ND-1?
Seems like the offset is a better design, no?

1552349735674-png.89873

I use a Jeweler's Screwdriver. It's the fastest set-up I can find. Nipple drivers are too complicated for their own good.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
I modified two regular flat scredriver bits used it with a low torque B&D driver, one has the center protruding (same as the Park Tool in the above picture) and the other has a slot in the center (same as the Problem Solver picture above), for when the spoke starts interfering with the slot in the back of the nipple. I built the last set of wheel with DT Swiss squorx nipples so I had to use the DT Swiss specific tool.
 

Santapez

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
How bad is it to re-use nipples? I don't think I have, but I've been tempted.
 

Santapez

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
at under $10 for 100 DT brass nipples, I'm probably just going new
Are yours alloy?

I only use alloy. It's not a $$ thing, it's what may be available when trying to make do with what's laying around.

IE, one wheel has a crap rim, other wheel has a bad hub, mix-match to get something cobbled together.
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
working on the new wheels by swapping rims and reusing spokes
The front was cake but rear has a good hop to it
I tried tighten the hop side and the opposite on the other side with not much luck.
Any suggestions on "rounding" out the wheel?
 
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