rlb
Well-Known Member
I like this idea, I do have one. Will try...
The DIY thread - DIYourself
- Thread starter rlb
- Start date
I like this idea, I do have one. Will try...
this ended up being close. I hit a stump last year at speed, and bent the front of the deck enough that the blade made contact.
managed to bend it back, but the top of the deck deformed, either from the blade strike, or the front.
I put a couple washers under the shaft housing to level the blade.
RobW
Well-Known Member
Got all the loose crap out. Need to mix some cement and patch. I’ve got that extra wood for forms which will work nicely. As I was chipping away, the guy running for city council dropped into my yard and was like.... hey you’re doing what I do and preceeded to give me advice. Some of which was helpful but not what I was planning to do. He’s got my vote already!
Still need to get that chunk out of the bottom step
Still need to get that chunk out of the bottom step
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
Masonry work is not easy, for me getting the mortar the right consistency so it sticks to the sides of the blocks. I had an engineering fail this past week. Thought my masonry wall would hold up 5 yards of pea gravel. Additionally, the gravel bog empties into the pond so expected the water pressure to hold back the wall. Did the deconstruction on Saturday and rebuilt the rear course yesterday. Filled in the blocks this time with cement but no rebar. The section which fell needs more. Was thinking to use rebars but my brother suggested this. Anyone know where I can get it?
ktmrider
Well-Known Member
@qclabrat
I would try Extech as that is where the masons I deal with typically get their supplies.
http://www.extechbuilding.com/
FYI, those ladder trusses / horizontal joint reinforcement don't really help with the overall "strength" of a CMU block wall. The reinforcement will help control movement, but it is typically that the internal reinforcement (rebar & grout) is what gives the wall it's strength. Filling the blocks solid will certainly make it more solid, but without any vertical steel reinforcement it can crack and separate.
I would try Extech as that is where the masons I deal with typically get their supplies.
http://www.extechbuilding.com/
FYI, those ladder trusses / horizontal joint reinforcement don't really help with the overall "strength" of a CMU block wall. The reinforcement will help control movement, but it is typically that the internal reinforcement (rebar & grout) is what gives the wall it's strength. Filling the blocks solid will certainly make it more solid, but without any vertical steel reinforcement it can crack and separate.
rick81721
Lothar
Finished painting trim in the front, power washed siding and rear deck/stairs (btw the old power washer died, a craftsman - if anyone wants to try to play with it, it's free. If not, it goes to the dump. It ran not well for a few hours, then when tried to start it a few days later, wouldn't run at all. Just starts and dies. Fiddled with it for awhile, then gave up and bought a new one).
Next project is this - hardwood floors have several stains from dog urine - I tried several years ago to bleach it multiple times, this was the best I could get it):
What are the options? Replace the boards? Or sand and re-stain the entire floor to a darker color? Gotta sell this dump soon!
Next project is this - hardwood floors have several stains from dog urine - I tried several years ago to bleach it multiple times, this was the best I could get it):
What are the options? Replace the boards? Or sand and re-stain the entire floor to a darker color? Gotta sell this dump soon!
Start a free doggy day care. Give them water, then put them in this room for a few hours.Finished painting trim in the front, power washed siding and rear deck/stairs (btw the old power washer died, a craftsman - if anyone wants to try to play with it, it's free. If not, it goes to the dump. It ran not well for a few hours, then when tried to start it a few days later, wouldn't run at all. Just starts and dies. Fiddled with it for awhile, then gave up and bought a new one).
Next project is this - hardwood floors have several stains from dog urine - I tried several years ago to bleach it multiple times, this was the best I could get it):
What are the options? Replace the boards? Or sand and re-stain the entire floor to a darker color? Gotta sell this dump soon!
gas unit? fiddled with it how? (i like tinkering with gas motors for good or for bad)
rick81721
Lothar
Yes gas. When it ran it was bogging down during washing, so I tried twisting wire on the throttle to keep it open. That's about it.
interesting . . .if you jsut tossing it and you come to a friday ride ill take it off your hands, worst case it ends up on my garbage pickup instead of yours . . .
Fat Trout
Well-Known Member
Oxalic acid helps..... A LOT. but it still won't be perfect. Ideally you would strip any poly over top just to get it through as much as you can.Finished painting trim in the front, power washed siding and rear deck/stairs (btw the old power washer died, a craftsman - if anyone wants to try to play with it, it's free. If not, it goes to the dump. It ran not well for a few hours, then when tried to start it a few days later, wouldn't run at all. Just starts and dies. Fiddled with it for awhile, then gave up and bought a new one).
Next project is this - hardwood floors have several stains from dog urine - I tried several years ago to bleach it multiple times, this was the best I could get it):
What are the options? Replace the boards? Or sand and re-stain the entire floor to a darker color? Gotta sell this dump soon!
it needs a new carb - probably $15 on amazon or ebay
rick81721
Lothar
Sounds good, it's yours.
rick81721
Lothar
I used that as well. Sanded the surface and multiple treatments with oxalic. It was a lot darker before. So how hard is it to remove sections and replace?
Fat Trout
Well-Known Member
my thinking is its hard because of the height difference. Floor guys do work miracles. Machine sanding will remove more color but not perfect. My areas were nearly black. between the oxalic and machine sanding (done myself) and staining golden oak it was reasonable. I'm sure a pro will have options but of course at a price.
need a circular saw and an oscillating tool. don't hit the nails.
isn't too hard. it worked ok the only time i did it.
walnut stain is popular now - that would work!
RobW
Well-Known Member
The bottom piece I removed and leveled out the area and had the perfect size cinder block to fit so I mortared that in place and filled in the cracks. The cement I was using wasn’t the right one for the risers so I have some spots to fill with a patching concrete. Should be done by this weekend... weather permitting. Will paint when dry. Then it’ll be time to build a shed. 